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Track

I am going with code 80 and want to know a couple of things. 1: Do you put track directly on the wood or use a road bed? If you use road bed how to you line up your buildings.IE: round house, stations Etc. 2: What is the best way to clean old track? 3: Should all rail joiners be soddered? 4: At what point in time should the joiners be soddered? When all track is layed or as you lay it? 5: Is a 40 watt pencil tip iron to hot? 6: Does anybody now anything about the new cold tip soddering iron?
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Re: Track

1. Most people use roadbed for several reasons. It helps deaden the sound from the engines and it provides a profile for the ballast. Besides, you glue it down and it becomes the guide line for the track. It is also easier to drive the track nails into the cork or other soft roadbed as opposed to plywood. 2. Old track? Any track can be cleaned with alcohol, silver polish cream or the special track erasers made just for this purpose. Do not use any sandpaper as this will leave scratches that will attract dirt faster. Very fine steel wool can be used, but not the coarse type. If you are reusing track that was glued down, soak it in warm water to remove the glue. 3. I solder all mine except at insulated joiner of course. With DCC, this provides a better electrical connection. There are enough insulated joiners in my layout to provide for expansion and contraction of the rails due to temperature variations. 4. I solder them as I lay the track. Especially at the curved joints. This assures a smooth curve while laying the track. Other than this application, which I recommend, soldering of the joints is up to you. 5. 40 watts is perfect. Don't forget to use "heat sinks" on either side of the joint before you solder. 6. I tried one of those and was disappointed. It does not get hot enough to solder my HO scale track. Other people like it. I'll stick to the hot tip. B-)
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Re: Track

Thank you very much and glad you understood with my poor spelling.
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Re: Track

trmwf
Enthusiast
Chuck, Just a little different idea on the soldering from me. I don't solder my track joints until AFTER I'm happy with the way the track looks and performs and all the kinks and bugs are worked out of it. This could take a few days or weeks. This way you don't have to "unsolder" anything when you go to make that change or changes that you are sure to want to do......guaranteed! prof
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Re: Track

I'm in total agreement with the prof and didn't explain myself properly. In #4 above I said that I soldered the track as I laid it. True, but only in the curved sections. I leave the straight sections unsoldered until I have run the heck out of the layout. Then I solder. Then I ballast. Once I know the track is where I want it and give it time to "settle in" I fix it so tight that you can't hear a squeak. You know what I mean. And Mike, I gave up unsoldering a long time ago. I just cut out a bigger section and replace it. We all have our own way to do things. "Ain't" it great? B-)
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Re: Track

Hi Chuck - Welcome to the group. I see that you are using the experience of the "old timers". That's what this site was set up for and also to have a bit of fun too. Just a note of caution about using steel wool to clean your tracks - be SURE that you get all the loose pieces picked up after you are finished cleaning. The little motors in the locomotives don't take kindly to bits of metal being introduced into their inards! A complete vacuuming to the track may be needed to be sure that you get all the loose bits. Happy Railroading. Bud.
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Re: Track

Chuck, Added to Bud's admonition about steel wool, my fault for suggesting it, is run a fairly powerful magnet over the rails also. These guys keep me on my toes here. B-)
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Re: Track

Thank you all for your input. My fault for not explaining. The used track is still in boxes. Wanted to clean it before using.
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Hi Bud: Noticed your screen name Montana. Are you from there? I have a sister in-law who lives in Libby. Thank you for the welcome.
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Re: Track

trmwf
Enthusiast
Chuck, Are you using "snap" track or flex track?
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Snap unless I have to use flex where snap wont fit.
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Chuck If you can, use all flex. A lot less joints to worry about and it'll fit anywhere. Probably cheaper too. Punk
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Re: Track

Hi Chuck: No, the "Handle" Montanabud0 came from the fact that I used to drive (when my wife wasn't using it or it needed gas and/or repair) a Pontiac Montana, and the Bud part is my nickname. I had to add the "0" because someone else had already selected the name without the "0". I live in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada just to add to the confusion. By the way, the Tulip Festival, which I have mentioned in an earlier item, begins on May 8th this year. I'll try to get some decent pictures of the immense flowerbeds of tulips grown here and post them so you all can see them. It is really quite a site! Bud.
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Re: Track

Well I guess I am old fashion. I like to here the click clack of the rails. That is why I am using snap. Bought a lot of it off of EBay. Since I think my layout is small and confined in a room just big enough for mr to get around I hope I will ne able to here it. Chuck
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Re: Track

Chuck I like the clacking sound too and there are a couple of places on my layout where the sound comes through nicely. Esepecialy when running long trains. However I don't like the sound of a wheel bouncing along the tracks signaling impending doom, so that is what I have learned to listen for. Try the snap track and then run the hell out of it before making it permanant. Punk
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