A New Beginning?

[untabubba]

I have been debating tearing down my dysfunctional, ill-conceived monstrosity and starting anew. See, I really do not have much experience and I think I jumped in WAY over my head both in size and "complexity" without any plan at all. I'm thinking about following a really neat plan. It is featured in the M.R. Mar. 2005 issue. It's called "Havaphew Central" built by Don Culp. It's small, but "busy", with plenty of switching action. I hope this link takes you to the page that details the track plan. http://www.trains.com/mrr/default.aspx?c=a&id=244 It is, basically a double oval capable of running two trains simultaneously. Lots of little industries, etc. ALL in 2.5 X 5 feet! The thing I like is that there is a total "schematic" of the layout, complete with a track parts list! That monster in my basement was literally made up as I went....... and I guess you all can TELL that And it works that way too. (Well, it doesn't work very well, hence the frustration!) So, let me know what you think....... untabubba Marc MAY be back in the layout building bidniz!

[untabubba]

To view the plan you have to scroll down and click the .pdf link on the left side of the page. (sorry) Marc

[g-pa1]

Marc it sure looks like a lot bigger than 2.5 x 5'! One suggestion - invest in aNCE PowerCab DCC system about $139.00 and a few decoder equipped loco's. If you are going to try to control several trains in that amount of space it is very easy to do with the Powercab. I know DCC can do many more things than I have nerve to try but to be able to control several loco's just by adjusting their speed individually and not having to pick a loco off the track to allow the other one to get a head start because one was catching up to the other is great. That is pretty much what I find myself using PowerCab for and I don't have blocks or anything like that. I can place a train on a siding shut it down and have the other train pass and then have the train on the siding follow is a whole new way to control the layout. Of course being able to turn off and on the headlight now and eventually having a loco with sound will be great too. N Scale is starting to catch up to the HO Scale in the possibilities. I look at other layouts either in mags or shows and have realized that those huge long layouts may be grest for some people but it's just me and occasionally my son or Grandkids and I like to see the trains run all the way around the layout. I can't see myself running a layout that I couldn't tell if there was a problem because I could't see beyond a certain part. sorry for the ramble. Gene

[ginzokid]

OK Marc, Now for my questions. Is it all on one level? Are you planning on making it a little larger to be able to run longer trains since we know you have a lot of stuff already? Are you really going to go with sectional track or will you use flex again? Do you have room for all your structures on this layout? What is your power source going to be; two DC throttles with lots of block wiring or DCC? Are any of your engines decoder equipped so you can go DCC? And finally, will you be satisfied with a small layout like this one? B-)

[untabubba]

Guys, I don't know that I'll go DCC. That's a whole other expense (and technology) I don't know if I'm ready for. I have four power pacs and lots of block controllers. I understand well the wiring techniques required for blocking. I am thinking about "expanding" it, both in width and length. See, that's the beauty of my working from an established plan.......kinda like a recipe. Do you EVER follow a recipe "verbatim"? I know I don't! So, I'll stick a few more straight tracks here and there and, maybe, go to 4x8 since I already have one standing there! I will use sectional track for the most part. ALL the problems I have with trackage is where I have flex track! If I do use flex track it would only be on long, uninterrupted straightaways. Yes, with all the switching action possible, I think I will be quite happy running this little railroad.....besides, I could always run a "cut-out" to another layout in the future! Finally, (I think) The article says "Maximum Grade - 0" So it is a flat run. Marc

[dl85vette]

Saw the layout and it looks pretty decent and hopefully will keep you busy and provide enjoyment. One suggestion if you don't mind....If you have the space in the room, have one of the sidings leave the layout onto another 'layout' What i mean is have the yard on a 1X4 ft to 1X6 ft extension (make the layout 'L' shape) This won't crowd the inside area of your layout, provide more scenery, provide more scenery options, (ex: not having a yard transition into the side of a tunnel,etc) You could then use this space for a couple tracks for switching industries or enuf room to make stub ended passenger station that's not gonna look like it was shoehorned in there. Like an article said once "anytime you move the yard off the main layout, yards don't suffer and they don't steal the show." By making that one change, you won't need to expand the layout to 4x8. Just my honest 2 cents in helping. Plan otherwise is a nice little layout that's not gonna cost 2 grand in scenery materials.

[dl85vette]

WRT dcc, do what you feel you are capable of, however a thought based on not knowing how many locos you have. If you have 4 powerpacks and they are the typical MRC tech series and all those switching blocks, they would sell for a tidy little sum of money and you wouldn't have to add much more to get a nice entry level DCC sustem such as MRC or Digitrax Zephyr ( I don;'t know how much NCE is) couple decoders for locos and thats' it. A few wires going to different parts of layout and that's it. Like you said, you have everthing now. Also if you have a lot of engines that you don't want to part with then yea, stick with DC. It's great to see ya all pumped up for a new layout and just want to see ya get off on the right foot...or right track. 😉

[g-pa1]

Marc, You can always do what I did run a second mainline oval around the original layout that you posted and just use it for DC loco's. I have one long mainline on DCC and One shorter mainline inside most of the long one on DC along with a small oval of Z on DC and two more lower ovals on DC. The reason I have not converted all of them to DCC is that I have many loco's that are not exactly DCC ready including a Kato Mikado that I really like to run. I do know that there are places that will install/ convert some loco's to have decoders in them and I have a Kato F7A and a Kato PH40 installed decoders by a hobby shop owner and have had excellent results. He even programmed the loco's so all I had to do was to place them on the DCC connected layout track and just call up the loco number I wanted to control. I put the numbers in recall and then just push a single button to control the loco I want to control. I was very hesitant even to connect the Powercab when I first got it but WOW am I glad I did. Starting from scratch I would recommend DCC to anyone. Like they say two wires to the track and you are good to go! Gene (I'll stop the pitch now sorry)

[ginzokid]

Marc, I like Dave's idea of taking the yard out of the middle and going with the L-shaped look. If you recall, my new "coffee table" will be DC just because the engines I want to run are not available, but believe me, if the Shays came DCC ready, I would go that way. The NCE Power Cab is around $179. As Dave said, you could sell your DC stuff, engines included, unless you are in love with what you have, and buy a couple of the new DCC and sound equipped diesels from Precision Craft. As for the sectional track, it will restrict you on curves and also give you lots of chances to misalign the rails. It's great if you like to hear the click-clack of the wheels at track joints, but murder on expansion and contraction as it gives you many more opportunities for heat and cold to affect the track. Gentle undulating curves can only be accomplished with flextrack. As for the flat layout, why are there bridges shown on the plan? You could raise the entire layout above bench level on say 2" foam and cut out things for the bridges to go over. That way the layout stays flat but the scenery undulates under and with hills added, over the tracks. Now that we have filled your head with ideas, sleep on it all and then sleep on it some more. TheDesignFadda

[g-pa1]

The NCE PowerCab here in the States is $139.00 almost anywhere. the MSRP is $179.00. Gene

[untabubba]

I hardly know where to begin! First, it is flat, Pete. He did exactly what you said. He cut out river beds "below grade" to get some water features in there. I'm going to have to read the posts again, while I look at the track plan, to really understand what you guys are saying about making the "yard" outside the original layout. I do NOT want to get "overwhelmed" again! I may build the layout pretty much as designed and then MAYBE have a turnout take it to a second "layout"....later! As for gentle undulating curves.......they will remain on my wife! :O I'm keeping this one fairly straight forward! I don't feel like I had a very "productive" experience with flex track. Maybe later. As for DCC and selling my stuff..... I don't even know what is "adaptable" and what isn't, but I spent years (literally) amassing a stable of early diesel era B&O.......I AIN'T SELLING NUTHIN'!!!!! I have lovingly installed MT couplers on them and they are my babies! I can't tell you the hoops I jumped through to get the appropriate cabooses (cabeese?) to go with them!!!! I'm going to begin with a tear down and material count to see where I stand. Marc

[dl85vette]

Even if you don't change over to DCC it is something that can be done later. We're not gonna make you part with fave locos. Don't feel overwhelmed Marc. The 'shelf' yard is something that can be built afterwards. It can be built to size like I mentioned to hold LOTS of cars. And the layout will be better off. Trying to shoehorn the yard in the middle is overwhelming. Pete's idea with foam is a good one. It makes rolling hills a snap and rivers too. No cutting thru plywood and supports for the lower riverline. that too is overwhelming. Screw up with the foam and it is easily fixed, screw up with wood and it is almost permanent. Sleep on it and it will all come together. Build it and we will come ...

[nascarpetlover]

Marc That is about the same progress on my little railroad. I am still remodeling the train room and generally cleaning out the basement and will rebuild or destroy what I have built and start some or completely new. And like you I most likely will NOT go to DCC. But also time will tell. Lou

[flaretired]

Marc. I can't belive how close this layout is to mine. It is on a 4'x 8' board and have the same yard layout. At the opposite end is where I put my turntable and roundhouse. (Remember all the problems I was having with it.) In fact right now I am expanding the yard to hold more cars. I think it will be okay if you expand yours also. Just my opinion from a novice. Chuck

[ginzokid]

Marc, OK. DC it is. You already know how to wire that type of layout and you can keep all your "babies". The "yard" we are talking about is the center section of dead-end tracks that comes off the inside loop. You can leave a couple of tracks in there for industries, but we are suggesting that you add a narrow shelf that can be accessed from one of the two sidings that come off the outer loop. This shelf can be only 12" wide even and either added as an "L" or in line with the main table. On this shelf you create a storage/staging yard for the majority of your cars. I'll try to draw something later and post it for you to look at. B-)