Soldering tips

[trmwf]

Anybody have any good tips on soldering? I have no problem putting a few wires together but am thinking of a brass kit that would require soldering. Any tricks to it??? Mike

[ginzokid]

Mike, You knew I would be here with some drivel. For brass models you will need a hotter gun than for wiring. I have a dual range 100W/200W gun that works for both wiring and brass. Also be sure you have a supply of "heat sinks" to put on either side of your intended joint. Wouldn't want the other joints to melt again would we. I use alligator clips in various sizes. Watch out! They really get hot! Use the same rosin-core solder you do for your wiring so you will not have to apply a separate flux. Be sure your gun tip is clean and "tinned". Now step by step. 1. Make sure the work is clean using a file, or wire brush to expose bright metal surfaces. Also be sure the parts mesh well and you have a good mechanical or physical connection. 2. Be sure to apply your heat sinks and secure the joint to be made so it will not move by vise, clamps or pins. 3. Hold the hot soldering gun to the joint so it touches both pieces to be joined. 4. Touch the solder to the joint work and NOT to the tip of the gun. When the work is hot enough to melt the solder it is at the right temperature for the chemical bond. Allow a small amount of solder to flow into the joint. 5. When the joint is wet with the solder, remove the solder, then the gun, being careful not to disturb the joint. 6. Keep the joint still until the solder cools with a bright, shiny surface. If the work moves before the solder cools, it will make a cold joint, one with a dull or frosted surface which will not be a reliable connection. 7. If you have applied too much solder, you may file off the excess gently. This is basically the same for brass parts and wire connections. Pete

[jamajack]

Mike, I agree with all of what Pete has layed down above in regards to soldering. Another thing you should have on your soldering bench is a damp cellulose sponge to wipe off your soldering tip. This will remove excess solder that may or will accumulate as you go along a joint. Just drag the tip over the sponge and the solder excess will stay on the sponge. I to have a dual soldering gun but have found it to be a bit to big when trying to solder a very fine joint or in a tight corner.Another type of Iron that I find works better is by "Weller"as you can change the tips in this Iron and it is temperature controlled so as not to overheat both your solder and/or Brass. You could try looking at a "Weller" WTCP Series at your local electronics store. They will have various models from probably two or three companies but I found this one to be the best. You can purchase all sizes of tips from needle point to chisel point.It is the just a matter of removing the screw cap, insert a new size point and away you go. These irons are good for everything you could do on a RR to soldering a small hole in a gas tank with the right tips. As for solder I would recommend "Kester" solder Alloy 63/37, Flux 331, Core 66. This solder does not require a external flux coat which is sometimes required and it is WATER Soluable for clean up. Hope this helps Jack #74

[dl85vette]

Great instructions guys. Do you want jobs as avionics techs on the aircraft? One thing to add from one tech... after soldering is complete and cooled, clean soldered area with flux removing or some isopropyl alcohol to clean the solder joint(s) free of residual flux as flux is corrosive. (that stuff cleans the metal so solder bonds better) Acid brush with alcohol is great for working away hardened flux from cct board.* I never saw circuit boards eaten away from the stuff but Cleanliness is next to godliness. It avoids problems down the road. * Correction, acid brush used with ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL. Tech may use suitable 5% Alcohol for internal consumption. Like me,Nothing like having that MGD** today for dealing with the fuel spill yesterday. (prior commitments prevented me from having it yesterday) :) Dave ** In no way am I sponsored by or afiliated with Miller Brewing Co.

[jamajack]

No thanks Dave, don't really need a job,worked on military aircraft for twenty years and five years in an avionic shop doing boards and running wire chases etc. Retirement is for me. They don't hire 68 year olds anyway-to shaky. Have fun Jack #75

[trmwf]

I have a Weller 100W/140W soldering gun is this hot enough? How about an open flame type torch to heat up the joint? If you make a joint and it turns out not quite square or something can you just warm it up to realign things or do you have to start over? The next question is what about some type of CA or other type glue or epoxy instead of solder? Thanks for all the info so far!! Mike ps: am I starting to sound like Marc here???

[untabubba]

WHAT is THAT supposed to mean, Mike?? :O Marc (Yes, I read ALL posts!) B-)

[trmwf]

Was only saying that I should have perhaps done some research on my own and read a little before gramps takes a strip out of my hide. Maybe even bought a couple small brass strips and tinkered around and practiced a little. Mike

[ginzokid]

Mike, You can, and I have, join brass kits with gap filling CA, BUT, the joint is smoother and more solid if soldered. DL, That's why I specified Rosin-core solder. No acid to worry about. We use it a lot in the "small world", unlike the "real world". But you knew that. Mike again, My gun has multiple screw-on tips that reach in to the corners etc. depending on the need. 140 should be enough. And the "wipe your soldering gun tip on a wet sponge" instruction I asumed you knew. Forgive me for not stating it here. CodFadda

[trmwf]

Thanks again guys. I will be practicing in a day or two on some scrap brass stuff I found. Mike

[ginzokid]

one more thing Mike, The thickness of the brass make a difference in the heat up time. I like to heat the brass for about 10 seconds before I ever touch the solder to the joint. Another tip. For soldering parts together like stair railings or hand rails on a set of stanchions, get a piece of masonite and some T-pins. Put your parts together and hold them in place with the T-pins like a temporary jig. I'm not being too specific here as I assume you know some of these techniques. It takes a lot to get the masonite to burn. Hope you know what I mean. CodFadda

[trmwf]

Thanks again Pete. I was aware of the masonite and pins and have used them for glueing projects. Now GOOD NIGHT! mike

[crazyd37]

Well, I a grateful to all of you for these tips. Didn't get to my computer today so I couldn't chime in, so I thank you all for answering my un-asked questions! Dot

[trmwf]

Am going to have to drop your grade down to a C+ for the typo. Mike

[crazyd37]

Wow Mike, I didn't know I would be graded! I was less than 50% yesterday with the meds, somewhere around 75% today and need to be more like 100% if I am ever going to catch up with work! Summer sicknesses always seem to get to me more than other times of the year. Better today, so back to work. Dot