Sidings

[g-pa1]

I have two manual turnout switches and a siding attached to the mainline of an N Scale track. If I manually switch the first switch so that the loco takes the siding instead of the mainline do I need to switch the other turnout at the other end of the siding in order to have the loco stay on the track or does it matter?

[trmwf]

Gene, You only need to line the other switch when the loco is to continue on through or out of the siding at that end. prof

[g-pa1]

prof, By "line the other switch" do you mean that If I want the loco to go forward onto the mainline I need to switch the far end switch too? I have been just using the first turnout to get the train to go onto the siding and then continuing on from there. Sort of like taking a shortcut through the infield if you will. I haven't been changing the other turnout and the train usually continues back onto the mainline track and once in awhile derails.I thought that I should only have to switch the other(far) switch if after the train cleared it I would want it to back up onto the siding.

[beastranger]

Gene No matter which direction a train is moving, if it is going to go through a switch, the switch needs to be switched! You will greatly reduce the amount of derailments. Doug

[ginzokid]

Gene, I assume you mean a passing siding, like 2 parallel tracks and not just a "dead end" siding. What ever direction you are going, the points must be switched to align the moving rails with the tracks from which the train will be coming or going into. Are these Atlas turnouts with points that "float" freely or do the points "snap" into position when thrown, meaning they are spring loaded. However they are constructed, you must align the points with the direction of travel as both Doug and Mkie have stated. The use of free floating points is not a good idea. They will work most of the time if the train is coming from the frog end of the turnout. The train will push the points over to the proper direction, most of the time. However, coming from the point end of the turnout, you are asking for disaster since the points may be in the middle and not lined up with any tracks. Derail time. Hopefully you have at least a manual switch machine or ground throw connected to the points to keep them in position. Whew! More than you wanted to know again. B-)

[trmwf]

Pete. I think he is talking about Atlas snap switches. With those you can usually "trail" through with an engine and sometimes a few cars will be heavy enough to force the points over but the lighter cars will not and they will just "ride over" the points derailing in the process. At any rate, Gene, you need to get in the habit of lining all switches for the route to be traversed. Just as information, a movement is referred to as a "facing point" move when it approaches the turnout from the point end and a "trailing point" movement when it approaches from the frog end of the turnout. In the real world there is such a thing as a "spring switch" that is made and intended to be trailed through. After each pair of wheels passes through it, it will return to normal or straight position. It is intended to keep someone from having to get off the train and line it back to normal position then walk back to the head end of the train. They are usually found in high density areas on a track entering a main line. They are marked with a "SS" on the target, stand or nearby sign and the location is designated in the timetable. Of course, an associated rule is that "all movements making a trailing point move MUST trail completely through the switch before making a reverse movement of any kind". If you don't, you will have cars heading down both tracks and derailing eventually. Lesson #1 for the year. prof

[g-pa1]

Pete, Prof is right the two switches are atlas snap track manual switches. I can line them now but if I push the layout back against the wall I won't be able to reach the far switch. Now that I've soldered the track and put the track on the AMI roadbed I guess I will have to keep the layout out from the wall. Also I have the switches that you have to put a finger on to move a small 'button?'left or right to change the switch. I would like to put an arm onto this switch so that I could 'throw' it. Is there such a thing to add to this switch or do I need to get a different switch to do this? The track is set up as a passing siding I can put a train onto it but have to take the loco off the track or it will keep going no matter which way the switches are thrown. I think I see the need for what I guess is called an insulating joiner or block? but not sure I am capable of putting one in. Sorry for the ramble. Otherwise I need to work on the mine and the waterfall and the lake and the scenery. WoW this hobby can consume me! Lucky the better half banned me to the basement yesterday after I tried pack up some of her Christmas decorations and didn't wrap them right. (Sometimes doing the wrong thing works out!!!) Gene

[beastranger]

Gene STOP EVERYTHING! At this point don't make anything permanant or you are going to end up ripping it all apart again. Now get yourself the Atlas wiring book or one of the others the guys have recommended. If you read the book it will tell you how to wire a layout to get it to do what you want it to do. Wireing is really very simple once you understand the basics. Then make a diagram of your layout with the connections you will need and follow it. Life will be much easier! Doug

[ginzokid]

Gene, Sounds like you need to replace those manual switch machines with electric ones so you can control them from the front of the layout with push buttons. The Atlas switch machines basically snap in and out of the turnout proper. Get some help from the LHS. Prof, Thanks for the "Facing/Trailing" lesson. B-)

[janesew]

Too bad we can't all jump in the vehicles and head over to Gene's. I want to wire up those switches, he can't reach, with motors and put some Caboose Ground Throws at the other locations. We could get you set up quickly and have a good ol' fashioned New Year's Levee ! Speaking of Ground Throws, how about these little babies: http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/97-103 Has anyone had any experience with these. They are HO scale but I use other Caboose Industries throws that are HO already. I'm thinking of these for the yard. There is some assembly required but they look great in action. I'm going to buy one at the LHS sale and play with it. I'll let you know. Good Luck Gene. There is SO MUCH to learn in this hobby. It NEVER stops. Fred

[trmwf]

Gene, Everybody is right. You need to stop and look things over and do a little planning. Your siding does need to be electrically isolated or "blocked". This will require a controller of some kind. Either an Atlas controller or a DPDT switch from radio shack. You will also need some plastic insulating rail joiners. Urge you to get the wiring book and do a little reading as there is no sense in going any further until you can get it right. Like Pete says, you also need to look at least making that far end of the siding an electric switch so you can move the layout back and still be able to use that end of the siding. Without that you may as well not even have the siding as it will not be useable and frustrating. prof

[untabubba]

Gene, Get the Atlas wiring book. It's very clear and starts you off real simple. It even explains terms like "frog" and "point"; which I didn't know until I bought the book. Wiring your siding as a separate block is not hard and you will get such a kick out of being able to pull a train in and shut it down while the other goes chugging by. That is the simplest of thrills in model railroading, IMHO. Pete, Who makes good "spring loaded" turnouts? I'm about ready to chuck these "floating" ones. (I learned that today!) NO! I haven't done my homework.....that's why I have you! :D (Even though I scold my students for copying! 😉 ) Seriously, I'm tired of the derailments of the finicky locos and cars! I've studied the Atlas electric snap track turnouts, and even though they have the little notch in the rail, and even though I've tried to file the points a little, I STILL have derailments! X-( Prof, As always, thanks for the terminology lesson. It's always neat to learn what the "real guys" call the "real thing".....kind of like in the world of science. Facing point, trailing point......hmmmmmm. Marc

[jamajack]

Marc, "Peco" as far as I'm concerned are the best. They can be operated with a manual throw or electrically with a switch motor that mounts under the surface. I also have enough of them that are within reach that I just throw by hand. They come equipped with a spring loaded mechanism that make a positive lock when thrown. They also will direct power to the track you want to use and shut it off when the switch is open. A buck or two more than some but worth it instead of the Atlas agravation of sloppy switch and sloppy electrical contact. Jack

[untabubba]

Gene (again), Line those turnouts!! (Isn't it neat to use the technical terms?) That will goes miles and miles toward avoiding derailments. I takes concentration and a bit of manual deftness, however. That is how I came to appreciate running trains at scale speed! 😄 Running N scale at "scale speeds" makes them go REAL slow!(Calculating this may be too much for you right now. Suffice it to say, 50mph "in scale" is pretty darn slow, and THAT is hauling a**, if I'm not mistaken?) Anyway, this slow speed gives you time to get the turnouts lined. Now, the Prof and Pete may want to comment here, but IF you are pulling your train into the siding to "park it", you only need to throw the switch where it is entering. You then cut the power to the block and realign that turnout back to the mainline so the "through train" can just cruise on by. Make sense? Anyway, get used to throwing those switches (turnouts) and always line them if you are running through! Marc (The other "non-technical guy"! 😉 )

[untabubba]

Jack, Are all Pecos spring loaded, or do I have to "shop" for them? Are the ones that direct the power called "electro-frogs"? I've read several of Pete's posts talking about power routing turnouts. Is this all the same thing?? PETE?? Thanks Jack! Marc