Sidings

[g-pa1]

I have two manual turnout switches and a siding attached to the mainline of an N Scale track. If I manually switch the first switch so that the loco takes the siding instead of the mainline do I need to switch the other turnout at the other end of the siding in order to have the loco stay on the track or does it matter?

[janesew]

For Gene and all the others in Our Group who like bugs in their teeth, here's a little item that might make you smile: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5945879189&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT Too bad it's HO. Fred (I have a 50's version of this scene in N)

[trmwf]

Gene, I could email some plans for a mechanical "long distance" switch machine if you like. I have posted them with the group in the past. I'm like Fred, unless you are going to make all your turnouts this way it would be far easier to motorize the one switch that is hard to get to which is really quite simple. I know you have no plans to run more than one train on this loop now but what about the future. It would be really simple to isolate that siding now before you do all the ballasting etc. Besides, since I always think about practicality, if you are not going to run more then one train on this loop why even bother to have the siding? Why not remove the turnout that is hard to reach and install it somewhere else along the line and make two stub end industrial spurs which will at least give you a chance for a little switching and add a purpose for your rr to exist? prof

[ginzokid]

Gene, A simple solution to you wiring problem to isolate the pasing track is to purchase a pair of "power routing" turnouts from any manufacturer you choose. Of course I had all those Pecos up for sale that you did not get for a bargain. Now as to the long distance lever, some suggestions are: automoblie choke cable, model airplane control lines and a very long brass rod. Gene, please break down and isolate this track electrically and get switch motors. Otherwise, Mike suggestion makes the most sense. B-)

[g-pa1]

I went to the LHS today and purchased an atlas wired remote turnout to replace the manual one that is hard to reach. I asked about isolating the siding but the train guy wasn't in so I didn't get an explanation as to how to to do this. Do I need to go out and get something else to isolate the passing siding and do I need to put it at the near end switch, the far end switch or both? prof, the need for a passenger train to stop at a stub end industrial spur would be so that the passengers can get off and get mugged!! I would ,however,like to create a yard where I could park several trains but at this time I feel I would be in over my head. Maybe if I ever go the DCC route Then I could put two trains on the track one being a freight and the other a passenger train. Pete thanks for the suggestions on manual controls for the far end switch but when I looked at the back of the wired atlas switch I figured even I could accomplish the hook up. Gene

[g-pa1]

Fred, I watch American Chopper regularly and marvel at the Teutels creations. Gene

[g-pa1]

Pete, would putting in the new wired remote turnout qualify as a power routing turnout? Gene

[trmwf]

Gene, I can answer partly for Pete...No an electrically operated turnout does not necessarily make it a power routing turnout. A power routing turnout has to do with the frog being uninsulated and you have to create gaps or it will create a short when lined certain ways. In order for you to "block" your siding you need to get a couple of plastic rail joiners and install them , one at each end of the track section close to the frog on the rail that comes off of the frog. This will effectively keep electricity from entering this section and it will be dead and useless until you hook up a wire to the insultated rail from the power supply through some type of on/off switch. Turn the switch on and it is just like it is now. Turn the switch off and the whole track between the plastic rail joiners is dead. As far as the passenger train stopping on a stub end track goes means you need to check out all of the major passenger terminals as they were stub end tracks. I don't know what you are trying to accomplish by running a passenger train in to a siding to handle your passengers when it could just as easily and quicker by the way just stopped on the main track since you have no other trains coming. That is the only purpose for a passing siding...to let other trains pass while one train is stopped. If there is only one train running and only one train planned to be operated on this loop then you do not need the siding to let your passengers off. Just put your station out next to the main line and stop right in front. prof

[nascarpetlover]

If I remember, a passing siding is for slow freights or a local train to go into to let a faster train to pass (like a passenger, produce train, etc.). And it would not be unusual to be there for half hour or more, depending on the distance and schedule of the other train. At least that is what I remember my father telling me when he ran a local switcher. LNF PS Anyway just my two cents worth.

[trmwf]

Lou, You are right with the addition of meeting an opposing train from the opposite direction. A train might actually sit in a siding for several hours if the conditions are right nowadays. My whole point is that Gene says he is not presently nor does he have plans in the future to operate more than the one train on this loop so why all the fuss and expense over a useless siding? Especially since he is having trouble getting it to work as he would like. I just thought his interest level would benefit if he had a couple of industries to spot cars at. prof

[ginzokid]

Gene, Mike has said it very well. I'll try to make a sketch later for you, but I once again strongly suggest that you invest in and devour the Atlas Wiring Book and Easy Model RR Wiring by Model Railroader. The switch you bought is just a regular turnout with a powered motor to throw the points. A "Power Routing" turnout not only throws the points from one leg to another, it also throws (routes) the electricity in the rails the same way. Just think of the train and the electrical current as one in the same. This type of turnout can be thrown both manually and with a powered motor that moves the points. The motor that moves the points does not switch the electricity. There are exceptions to what I just said, but let's KISS right now. There are also two types of turnout frogs; live and insulated. Neither one has any bearing on the "routing" of power. That is all done under the turnout by wires molded into the turnout by the manufacturer. Live frogs have power to them and provide smoother operation of the trains over the frog as opposed to the insulated frog that has a large plastic piece in the frog which can cause stalling or a hitch for some locomotives. I'll also try to get a shetch of a simple wiring system for you to isolate the passing siding using Atlas components. That's enough for now. I'll try to get those sketches up later. B-)

[ginzokid]

OK here goes. The sketch below is about the most simple way to isolate a passing siding and the main line at the same time. With this arrangement it is possible to have two trains controlled by one transformer, just in case you want to have a passenger train stop at a station while a freight goes by. However, you can still run only one train in one direction at a time. So you could run the freight one way while the passenger is sitting at the station. Then when the freight makes it back around, it can stop at the freight station while the passenger goes the other way for its loop of the layout. I have insulated all four rails at both ends of the siding and main. No chance of a short that way no matter what kind of turnouts you use. The ""T" is the transformer and the other is an Atlas Controller. This is basically an on/off set of three switches in one plastic housing. The wires from the transformer are the DC track power ones. All you use is one side of the controller. (I hooked the single wire to the controller in the sketch to the wrong post. It should be the red one, but I think you get the idea.) This way both isolated lengths of track can be on or off with the flip of a little yellow slide switch on the controller. The wiring for the turnout motor is totally separate from this wiring. Just follow the directions on the back of the card for proper installation. It's a very rough sketch, but I hope it helps. It looks worse than it is if you take one wire at a time. B-)

[g-pa1]

Pete, I did dig out my complete atlas wiring book and found out that the three switches are called connectors. I will check on them at the LHS. Do I understand you correctly that even though I wire the track as your diagram depicts I will still have to wire the far turnout with the electrical turnout that I bought yesterday and use the switch that comes with that to control the far end turnout? At least that is my understanding. Now it's off to the train store. Thanks for all the help. Mike I understand your point as far as operations go. I probably will want to get into the more complicated operations end of Model Railroading eventually but right now I am happy just offering several different views to the passengers on the train. I am going to try to wire the siding as Pete suggested though. Gene

[ginzokid]

Gene, Yes the turnout motor is wired completely independently from the track power. I haven't used an Atlas turnout for a long time, but I think they run off the AC side of the power pack. (Somebody help me out here.) The little blue "momentary contact" button that comes with the motorized turnout is wired only to the turnout motor and power and not to the track. So, on your control panel you will have a transformer, a turnout control button and a Controller for the track siding and mainline. If you power both turnouts, you can sit at the control panel and run the two trains without moving. You can even throw both turnouts at the same time with one "Momentary contact" button. Hands off railroading. B-)

[untabubba]

Somewhere back in this thread the Prof suggested that I go with code 55 turnouts. I asked if that wouldn't necessitate my going with code 55 throughout. I never got an answer. Is it possible to mix codes? What would be the advantages and difficulties? How would one go about it? (Special joiners or tracks?) Marc

[trmwf]

Marc, You can mix but not very easy and not really recommended. Especially the way you would be doing it: code 55 turnout code 80 track code 55 turnout code 80 track. It is usually done where code 55 meets some hidden trackage that is still code 80 or where someone is converting gradually and the two codes meet temporarily. Yes code 55 turnouts would need code 55 track but what the heck, if you can afford new turnouts then some flex track shouldn't even be an issue. The only advantage to code 55 is appearance appearance appearance. It all depends what you are after visually. Check out the two side by side while shopping for the turnouts. prof