Building With WS Foam Risers

[ginzokid]

As I mentioned in the other group, I am going to build my new layout with Woodland Scenic foam risers. You can see in the pictures that I have posted that the open grid bench work, which you can't see, is covered with acoustic ceiling tiles. This gives me the flat surface I need without having to cut a lot of plywood sub-roadbed and risers. Not much fun as you probably already know, especially on the curved pieces. And all those risers to cut and the splices to make. The WS system has to be simpler. Now comes the fun. Figuring out how much and of what pieces I needed. Well, I have a lot of foam coming. The real fun was figuring out the inclined risers needed to allow the proper clearance at the overpasses. I am using two different slopes, the 2% and the 3%, to get up to the clearance I need. What I also had to do was combine several different thicknesses of riser plus incline to get to the proper height. As soon as I get started and take some pictures, I'll post my progress. Meanwhile, if anyone has questions about the WS foam system, ask away. I think I have a good handle on it. Pete

[dl85vette]

What I did with the couple of W/S incline I have is glue them down, and then trim them to width by sloping them out from the track to resemble a ditchm or something. This will depend on what the surrounding scenbery will be.

[ginzokid]

Chuck, The WS foam is a set width. To cut it you will need a foam cutting knife blade from WS or a hot wire foam cutter or a serrated steak knife snuck out of the cutlery drawer in the kitchen. I'm not familiar with any Atlas incline set. Didn't know they made a foam one. Or do you mean the plastic abutments that are used to raise the sectional Atlas track? What you said would be a 3.3% grade. Steep. 1/8"/ft = 1% grade. 1/4"/ft = 2% grade. 3/8"/ft = 3% grade. 1/2"/ft = 4% grade. You get the idea. As for getting the starter set, oit provides a rather smooth transition from the flat to the incline. If however, you are using a "cookie cutter" method where a plywood base is cut up and raised on risers, you do not need the incline set. It sounds like you are using a flat base and employing foam to achieve the elevations. You actually don't need anything but the incline starter sets to get you off the flat. Then you can use various thicknesses of foam to continue up. You just have to block under the normally flat pieces of 2" or 4" risers that WS makes. You can bend them to any grade you want vertically. B-)

[flaretired]

Sorry about that. Yes I am talking about the plastic kit. That is what I tried and it seems that all my engines except one can pull at least ten cars without slowing down. Also does not speed up going down hill either. After putting in the plastic set I realized it would be to hard to landscape and make it look real since you cannot use any kind of road bed with it.(Not thinking ahead)I only need to go up 2" or so for what I am trying to do. Thank's for the help. Chuck 🙂

[dl85vette]

Also unless you are reproducing a prototype area that has steep inclines, I'd keep it 2% or under just like the prototype does normally. my canyon loop is 2% and the big diesels stil have to work. 14-17 cars with average diesel (gp38/SD40) 8 cars if pulled by SW9. Of course if you are planning somehting of your own then you can have it whatever grade. Just thought I'd mention this all so you wouldn't be surprised when that favorite loco didn't seem to pull like it could on flat.

[ginzokid]

Chuck, Yes you can easily landscape when using the Atlas plastic riser set. Take a look at Princess's album and you will see my old HO Christmas tree layout. This was built using the Atlas HO scale risers, just like the N scale ones. Here's how you do it. You install your track and be sure to glue or nail down the Atlas riser set to the board. Next, glue cork roadbed under the track sections between the Atlas risers. Next, using the WS method of scenery construction, crumple up newspaper and stuff it under the cork and around the risers to hide them. Cover all the newspaper with WS plaster cloth and apply your scenery materials like grass, rocks and trees. Ballast the track and you will never know what is under there. Take a look at the pictures. Did you know that you can also use flex-track instead of sectional track with the risers? You just slide the riser along the flex track until you get it where you want it. This way, you can make the grade less than the 3% of the sectional track buy placing the risers farther apart than the sectional distance. Have I given you some ideas now? TheTrainFadda

[flaretired]

Thank you Pete you just saved me some money. Again not thinking. Never would of though that. Thanks again. Chuck 🙂

[ginzokid]

Chuck, I forgot to mention that I used Walther's Goo for the gluing of the cork to the plastic ties. Any contact cement will work. And also, there will be little slots on the plastic risers that need to be filled in before you ballast. You will see. Just glue some paper over the slots or stuff some cotton or paper, whatever you have on hand, to fill in the holes so the ballast doesn't just run into these openings. By the way, the WS plaster sheets can just be laid up onto the sloped sides of the cork for a good seal. I suggest that you always fold over about a 1/4" of the cloth back on itself so you get a "clean" edge instead of a ragged, loose thread, kind of mess. TheMiserFadda

[flaretired]

Pete can I use rubber cement for gluing cork to foam and cork to the track? Chuck 🙂

[dl85vette]

I have used 3M brand 77 contact spray cement for laying track onto cork which has been glued onto foam. I used PL300 for cork laying regardless if it is a foam or wood base. dave

[ginzokid]

Chuck, I just tried the rubber cement to glue cork to foam and it didn't hold. I don't think it is strong enough for the cork to tie connection either. The Walthers Goo has a solvent in it so don't use that on the foam. It will disolve it. Dave's thoughts on the PL300 are good. I have used a product that someone makes which is an adhesieve that is called "Something for Projects". The name escapes me right now, but I assume it is like the PL300. At any rate, when gluing foam be sure your glue does not have any solvent in it. B-)

[dl85vette]

Chuck, in the case of not knowing what PL300 is, it is a construction adhesive for foam that comes in a caulking tube.

[ginzokid]

Chuck, I remembered the name. It is Liquid Nails for Projects. There is one kind that is made for foam and will not eat it away. Also thought I would mention that for my present layout, I am using WS foam risers and cork roadbed. I hot glued the risers to the benchwork then put one layer of WS plaster cloth over them to create a smoother surface. Then I use white carpenter glue to glue the cork to the plaster cloth. It hold extremely well. My track is also glued to the cork with this white glue. Once ballasted in, it is going no where. I don't mean school glue, this is construction grade white glue just like carpenter yellow glue. I buy it by the gallon at the hardware store. This same glue is diluted to various concentrations for use in ballasting and scenery. TheGlueFadda