Shipping HO Model Trains

[articulatedgeared01]

Sun 10-7-18 8:17 p.m.

This post covers the attachment of price labels to HO trains and packaging practices for HO trains.

1) Pricing Labels - Folks at train shows and collecible shops may place pricing labels on trains or train boxes.  The labels may stay on surfaces for long periods of time and degrade both painted train surfaces, paper-sided car surfaces, and box surfaces.  Fundamentally, it is a poor practice.  It helps if pricing labels are placed inside train boxes.  Alternately, a paper band can be wrapped around a train box flap and the flap taped to itself (not the box).  The price label can then be attached to the paper band.  I personally don't like tags with strings because the string can get caught on sensitive train parts.  For cars (rolling stock) I like to put paper band around a car truck axle and tape the band to itself (not the car).  The price label can then be attached to the paper band. 

It is a very good practice on steam locos / tenders to tag both the loco and the tender with paper bands / pricing labels.  The paper bands can go around the pilot and trailing trucks on the loco in most cases.  This will help to prevent the wrong loco and the wrong tender being matched up.  This is not an issue for diesel locos because they are generally one piece-units.  However, the Union Pacific and a few other roads had two- or three-piece turbine and coal-burning turbine locos, so watch out.

I purchase some items at train shows.  I always look at the bottom of cars and the bottom of locos / tenders to see who made them.  I also look to see if they are powered or dummy (unpowered) units.  So photos of the bottoms of locos / tenders purchased on ebay are a must.   Many items have no manufacturer listed on the bottom or elsewhere on the train item.  Experience helps with this problem. So putting pricing info on the bottom of of cars and locos makes quite a bit of sense.  

If you want the pricing on the top of the car, wrap a loose fitting paper band around the middle of a car or loco / tender.  Then tape the band of paper to itself (not the train item).  Then apply the pricing label to the paper band.

Lionel trains and boxes (particularly mint items) have the same issues.  Attaching labels to mint train items / train boxes can severely degrade theior value.  

Be a Smart ebay Seller.

- To Be Continued -

[dinpavent0]

OMG, Seriously I was thinking same thing. So my husband has bought a lot of train items, estates and hobby shop buyout. I am the one that lists and was just complaining to him that it is so stupid how people at hobby shops and estates stick prices right on items or on a really bad spot on box and it ruins it. Can't get them off and when I do eventually get them off it tears spot on box and leaves sticky residue on the cars themselves. I can't stand it. Same thing on die cast collectible cars, prices stuck all over boxes and most people purchasing car also want a mint box to go with mint car. I wish we could send this message to all hobby shops, ebayers and estate people selling items.

[articulatedgeared01]

Sun 10-7-18 9:07 p.m.

- Continued -

1) Pricing Labels - As an ebay buyer and train show buyer, I may run across trains where adhesive labels are attached to a box or painted / paper train surfaces.  Sometimes labels have to be scraped off surfaces.  This may result in damage to painted / paper surfaces.  It can also leave adhesive residues or adhesive stains behind on surfaces.   If a box surface has clay additive in the pasteboard stock, the surface may be slick and labels can easily be removed.  I have used transmission fluid and rubbing with a paper towel to remove some residues.  This will not work on rough paper / pasteboard surfaces.  Plastic and painted surfaces can present big problems when it comes to removing labels.  Scraping or use of any kind of solvent can degrade / damage plastic models.  I have used transmission fluid in some cases to remove labels, but this can be risky on painted models.  On metal and die cast models, a heat gun / hair dryer can be used to remove labels.  Make sure the model and all attachments are metal and watch out not to burn your fingers. 

[articulatedgeared01]

Sun 10-7-18 9:22 p.m.

2) Packaging Practices - I have written previously about splint packaging to protect HO trains (and other trains).  The following are other issues associated with packaging: 2a) NEVER - I MEAN NEVER APPLY TAPE TO A TRAIN BOX SURFACE.  When the tape is removed, it can rip the surface material off a box,  If tape is applied to a train box, a heat gun / hairdryer can be used to carefully remove the tape from the train box.  Peel the tape off slowly as it is heated.  Be careful not to burn your fingers.  2b) If items are wrapped in bubble pack - tape the bubble pack with blue masking tape used for painting - tape the bubble pack with 3M Scotch tape (slightly translucent tape in green plaid dispenser) - tape with packing tape which can be removed from the bubble pack with out tearing the bubble pack to shreds. 2c) If packing tape is used to package bubble pack-wrapped items, fold about 1/4-inch of tape over on itself (Note: This forms a tab which can be located for unwrapping an item.). 2d) NEVER - I MEAN NEVER WRITE OR PRINT ON A TRAIN BOX WITH ANY KIND OF PEN, PENCIL, MARKER, ETC.  (Note: I think I can figure out what is inside without ruining the train box.). 2e) Give some thought to wrapping train boxes with white (unused) newsprint or brown Kraft paper.  This does a couple of things.  It keeps the train box closed.  The paper wrapping can be taped and written on without destroying the train box.  (Note: Do not press down hard with a pen when writing on the paper wrapping or it may damage the train box.). 2f) Do not package trains diagonally in USPS shipping boxes in order to save on shipping costs.  The corners of boxes are generally banged around quite a bit and it can result in locos and tenders being smashed on the ends. 2g) Pay clope attention to "stand-off" distance between the merchandise an the inner walls of the shipping boxes.  NEVER  - I MEAN NEVER PUT A TRAIN BOX DIRECTLY NEXT TO THE INNER WALL OF A SHIPPING BOX.  Always try to provide as much stand-off distance as you can afford (that is, big boxes with lots of cushioning material cost more to ship).  Splint Packaging can help to reduce the need for cushioning material.  Cushioning material (styrofoam peanuts, cumpled paper, etc.) should be 1/2 to 3 inches thick all around the train box.  It is absolutely critical that items be centered inside the shipping box to keep the item away from the inner wall of the shipping box. 2h) Remember that items can be dropped on concrete floors, tossed, and shipped on end.  Train items are frequently damaged on the ends.  This can occur because items shifting around inside the shipping box or the shipping box is torn and some of the stryrofoam peanuts fall out leaving a void space.  If items are shipped on end, the items can bounce up and down in the train box / shipping box hundreds of times (USPS trucks drive over potholes) and the train items "see" every pothole.  It helps to print THIS SIDE UP (with arrows pointing upward) on the sides of the shipping box to ensure that train items remain horizontal during shipping. 2i) Do not package heavy die cast train items next to light plastic items.  It helps to put a piece of cardboard between bubble pack-wrapped items.  Alternately, light items which could be smashed may be packaged in some kind of small box to protect it before placing it in the larger shipping box, 2j) Some train boxes are ripped or degraded.  Either wrap these boxes in paper or a plastic wrap or a plastic bag to prevent the loss of tiny model parts.  2k) NEVER- I MEAN NEVER SHIP A BRASS MODEL TRAIN WITH ROTTEN OR DEGRADED FOAM.   Remove the rotten foam.  Check for any small parts which may have transferred from the model to the foam, and throw the foam away.  Package up any small parts in a small plastic bag.  Then wrap the train item in bubble pack. 2l) NEVER - I MEAN NEVER USE AIR PILLOWS FOR SHIPPING HEAVY MODEL TRAINS.  Air pillows can burst under load, and can leave void space inside the train box. 2m) If styrofoam peanuts are used to package a train box, then the shipping box needs to bulge out a little after the box flaps are closed.  This keeps the styrofoam peanuts from settling and creating a void space. 2n) some brass train models are packaged in foam.  Sometimes the foam has been replaced.  Train models have a nasty habit of finding seams in the foam, worming their way into the seam and getting up next to the inner wall of the train box where they can get smashed.  Splint packaging can help with this problem.  2o) I do not like it when someone takes a USPS falt rate box and cuts it all up to make a custom box (even if it saves a little money on shipping).  The boxes are ugly.  It causes problems for the USPS and it causes problems for me when I want to put it in a stack with other flat rate boxes.  It wastes USPS resources and encourages the USPS to raise shipping prices.  2p) I really hate large shipping boxes.  They take up too much room and have to be repackaged for storage.  They take up too much room in my vehicle.  They create large quantities of wasted packaging material which I must dispose of in a reasonable manner.  Once again, splint packaging is a better choice.  2q) It is extremely important to make sure a loco / tender cannot shift around within the original train box.  It does not help to bubble pack wrap the outside of the train box if the train is loose inside.  This will result in a smashed train inside a well preserved box.  2r) It helps to lightly shake the shipping box to see if anything is loose before shipping out the train item.  Sometimes there is a loose boiler weight inside a loco, and there is not much which can be done without disassembling and repairing the loco.  This goes with the territory.  2s) Do not ship a bare train in a padded envelope.  This is asking for trouble.  2t) Realize that price on trains is important and right after that is packaging.  Fast delivery which results in damaged trains is not much help.

[articulatedgeared01]

Sun 10-7-18 10:29 p.m.

- Continhed -

2) Packaging Practices - There are some strange things that can happen when trains are shipped.  Try to work with buyers as best you can on these issues.  2u) When models ship, they can vibrate and rattle around inside the train box.  On brass steam locos, this can result in breakage of the rubber coupling / tube between the motor and the gear box.  Then the model will not run (the motor will run, but the wheels will not turn).  In most cases this is a $5 to $15 repair job.  It is also possible that the fasteners on the side rods or the drawbar may come loose.  It helps to tighten up all fasteners (screws, nuts, bolts) before testing / operating a train.  Try to be reasonable as a seller / buyer on this issue.  The problem can't be helped easily.  Keep in mind that the Japanese used to manufacture transistor radios back in the 1960's.  They used to put a drop of paint on fasteners to help with vibration and tampering issues.  HO trains seldom have this feature.  Boiler weights sometimes come loose during shipping.  This is not hard to repair, but does require disassembly of the model to make repairs.  Again, this is about a $5 to $10 repair.  2v) Be careful when selling / buying die cast locos / cars or brass loocs / cars with die cast components.  Some die cast (zamac / zinc alloy) parts can degrade with age ("zamac cancer").  When this happens, die cast items can swell and lock down a locomotive mechanism.  Rivarossi 0-8-0 tender bases are notorius for zamac swelling problems.  Die cast items can also crack and shatter during shipping.  Akane tender truck frames are really bad about this issue.  On Akane tender trucks, it may be best to remove the trucks and retaining screws and put them in a well-padded box.  Also consider placing a small block of flexible polyurethane foam on the bottom of the tender base between the trucks.  This will take the load off the trucks during shipping.  2x) Some models have a retaining screw between the loco and the tender (for example, Mantua steam locos / tenders).  Give some thought to removing the screw on the drawbar and placing the fastener  in a plastic bag (or put it back in the tender feature).  This can help reduce the size of the shipping box.  2y) Mantua 2-6-6-2T locos are very difficult to ship in the original styrofoam-lined train boxes.  The smoke box covers invariably get smashed.  I highly recommend removing these locos from the original train box, wrapping the loco in bubble pack and shipping the empty train box with the loco.  Similarly, the pilots on Mantua 4-6-2's amd 2-8-2's can break off when shipped in the original styrofoam-lined train boxes.  2z) Sometimes, small metal parts may adhere to the backs of magnets inside the cab of steam loco models.  If you see something on the magnet, remove it, put it into a small plastic bag and ship it with the model.  It is better to remove such an item prior to shipping to prevent the item from finding its way into a critical train location (for example, the fastener could jam a train mechanism).  2aa) Some Kato diesels and Athearn diesels have problems with shells coming loose from train bases.  It is courteous to wrap a band of cardboard or paper around such an item so that a buyer will not drop the train mechanism on the floor when the item is unpacked.  2bb) Motor brushes can shift during shipping.  Electrical contact wipers on diesel trucks can shift during shipping.  Wires can break on drive systems and motors during shipping.  This can require quite a bit of trouble shooting and may result in costly ($5 to $20) repairs.  It should come as no surprise that a model runs when shipped and does not run when it arrives at the buyer's destination.  Light bulbs / light bulb wires can also fail to work / short out.  2cc) I fundamentally hate modified models (that is, locos retrofitted with can motors, modified drive train systems, DCC systems, added detail parts, added lead weights - lead shot, fishing sinkers, etc.)  Many models are old and adhesives have become brittle.  The work may have been performed poorly.  Items assembled with double-sided tape can fall apart with age.  Wires can break loose on DCC units.  One hobby shop used to cut DCC wires between locos and tenders to save on shipping costs.  The bottom line is that any modified loco is at greater risk of malfunctioning after shipping than an original stock model.  If you are good at repairs, buy whatever you want.  If you are not good at repairs, stick with original models.  They will survive the packaging / shipping environments much better.  Be aware that modified models from damp environments may have lead weights which have oxidized to form white lead oxide.  The lead oxide can flake off the model.  Lead oxide is toxic to humans and pets.  If you have a model with this problem, please make the information known to the buyer.  If you purchase such a model, always check the packaging materials for loose white residue.  I had a model which came in this way.  I removed the lead boiler weight, scraped off all the lead oxide, packaged up the residue in double paper wrappings, and discarded it in the trash.  I reassembled the cleaned weight back into the loco.  Then I washed my hands and any tools to remove lead oxide contamination.  2dd) Many train boxes for brass locos have split box seams.  Please do not put tape on these seams.  A good repair is to cut a piece of white file card stock the height of the train box, fold the stock in the middle to make an angle strip, and glue it inside the box with Elmer's School Glue (non-toxic).  Then mop the seam on the outside with a little more Elmer's Glue.  As a courtesy, tell the buyer what you did with the box.  Honesty and attention to detail are good ways to get and keep customers during hard times.  2ee) Many model railroaders were not to saavy about the use of small fasteners (bolts, nuts, screws).  Improperly sized fasteners could have been installed on a model.  Fasteners may be missing or stripped out.  If you are buying / selling, look for problems with fasteners.  Missing fasteners or fasteners which have fallen out during shipping can prevent a model from operating properly.  Try to be reasonable about this issue.  I do quite a bit of repair work and I am extremely fussy about the material, diameter, and length of fasters.  One time a brass model came in to me with a fastener which was too long.  I tightened it up and it shorted out the drawbar connection.  It is hard to say if the original owner was responsible or a seller who did not know how to make adequate repairs.  Be patient and keep your eyes open wide. 

[sam9876]

Paragraphs are your friend.

[articulatedgeared01]

Sun 10-7-18 1:47 p.m.

Re: Damaged Boxes Where Price Labels Have Been Removed.

In addition to fixing trains and train boxes, I am a rabid repurposer.  I collect discarded packaging from the grocery store.  I also have pasteboard boxes which can be used to make train boxes from scratch.   I also sift through discarded catalogs.  I store may colored paper / pasteboard resources in junk mail envelpes and color code the envelopes.  Many of these resources  have the same color as the pasteboard on train boxes.  So I cut out little pieces of carboard and make patches as needed.  I attach the patches with Elmer's School Glue (non-toxic).  Many times a train box will be missing a flap and the train item can slide out and fall on the floor.  I will generally make a replacement flap from pasteboard (a cereal box).  I trace the pattern of the good flap on the other end of the train box.  The replacement flap can be attached to the train box with tape.  Alternately, I may use some type of paper or brown Kraft paper (grocery bag stock) to attach the flap to the train box. 

You might say this is too much work.  I say you don't like trains or your customers very much.  I know I have a problem, because I would like to have everything in "as new condition."  Do what you can.  At least I am trying. 

[robot-hands]

Pffft. You should see how hand scanner noobs price books.

It's like they have no idea what a book is or why someone would want one.

[electrola_man]

Soaking a label with lighter fluid (Ronsonol or similar) will soften the adhesive and allow the label to be removed, and applying a bit more fluid to the area will allow the remaining adhesive to be cleaned away leaving no trace from most surfaces, including cardboard boxes.

I don't like stickers, but I'll take them over a nasty alternative.  One time at an estate sale I brought one record album to a lady to ask the price.  She took it in her hand, and before I could stop her, she scribbled, "10¢" on the cover in ball point pen.  I paid the dime, but 30 years later, that damage is still there.