The OG Tipster

[ogtipster]

Hi everyone. I'm the OG tipster. Actually you all are the OG tipster. Here's my idea. We all have tips from time to time to share with each other. Why not have a special place to post these. So I have created a new member, the OG Tipster. You all can use this ID and here is how. Log into ebay as: ogtipster. The password is: ogone1. Once you are in you can post pictures to go along with the tip. The pictures will still have to be approved, but we are usually fast there. Tell me if you like this idea. So here's the first tip which I modified from an article in O Gauge magazine. "Easy and affordable building lighting." Using a brass rod and affordable Life-Like lamps with wired sockets 433-1215, you can follow the schematic for construction. Replacement screw-in bulbs are 433-1213. Bend the brass rod to form a loop and right angle at the bottom. Make it long enough to go up through a 3/8" round hole in the benchwork and into the building. Cut the socket lead off the socket and solder the socket to the brass rod. The other lead comes from the bulb. Insert the assembly from below and secure with a screw acting as a contact terminal. See schematic. These can be connected to any lighting bus in parallel. The result is easy replacement of a burned out bulb and no disturbance to the building and surrounding scenery.

[montanabud0]

Just another thought - an easy way to make Propane tanks - if your dentist uses the same material for amalgum fillings as mine does. His material comes in two part plastic tubes, which break apart so his assistant can mix up the ingredients. One end is about 1/2 as long as the other. By sanding down the flat ends, they can be joined together to make a propane tank. Use two of the longer pieces to make a longer tank. My dentist just throws these out so he keeps them for me. I'll try to take some pictures and post them later. Bud.

[montanabud0]

It's me again: I forgot to mention that the bases for the tanks is just scrap styrene cut to fit the curve of the tank and then painted a cement grey color. The pipes on the tanks are made from styrene rods cut to the appropriate lengths and cemented to the tanks with plastic cement. Bud.

[montanabud0]

I found a very economical way of making what I call Page Wire Fences - the kind that are found around some the back yards of many homes and/or security areas. I bought a yard of this stuff at a dry goods store (I don't know what they called it, I just happened to see it one day when my wife was looking for curtain material). It comes in at least two different size grids (for lack of a better term). It is quite flexible and can be made to keep an angle if you use a steam iron at the corners. I'll try to post a picture of a fence I made using it and straight pins with the tops cut off and then bent at an angle for the posts. It surrounds one of my Propane Tanks. Bud.

[ginzokid]

Bud, that looks like "toole" or the lace trim they use for bridal veils. Neat job! Very convincing "chain-link" fences. B-)

[montanabud0]

Thank goodness you got the name of the fence right - I had a senior moment and couldn't remeber the term chain-link. Bud.

[flaretired]

I just found another thing for sanding. Emery boards. They come in all kinds of grades, and are cheap. The ones I am using have a fine side and a ruff side. These kits I am working on leave a lot of little pieces in the windows. Since I have no files I just cut the board to the size of the window. Works great. Chuck 🙂

[ginzokid]

Darn, I missed telling you guys about that one. Well, can't remember all the tricks at once you know. Very good Chuck. They actually work out to be cheaper that a set of needle files in the long run, because when they get dull, you just buy new ones. And if you have needle files, like I do, you have to buy a "card file" to clean them from time to time. And the card file only lasts so long. And Chuck that stuff in the windows is called "flash" for your future reference. You can also cut it off with a #11 blade in your xacto knife. B-)

[montanabud0]

Chuck: I'd stick to using an emery board to remove the flash unless it is quite pronounced - I find using an Xacto knife sometimes causes gouges whereas the emery board doesn't. Bud.

[ginzokid]

This tip may sound absolutly nutz, but it does work. If you have a small amount of flash on your plastic parts, like the windows that Chuck is talking about, you will notice that this flash is transluscent. In other words, thin enough that light can be seen through it but still you can't make out what is on the other side of it. Take a brush full of your liquid plastic cement like Ambroid, Tennax or Testors in the bottle, and brush it on to this flash. It will melt away like butter in a hot pan. Try it some time and let me know how you like it. The finish is much smoother that any filing you can do. Remember, these glues soften the plastic to make a bond. That's why it works to melt the flash away. B-)

[montanabud0]

I recently wanted some small chain for a project and found that the LHS wanted an arm and a leg for only a very short length. So, being a bit of a miserly type, I put on my thinking cap and visited a store which handles recycled clothing and other goods. In Ottawa there are several such outlets - The Salvation Army, Value Village and some others. I looked in the jewellery section and found several sets of necklaces with very fine chain - just what I was seeking. Really broke the bank as they cost me 50 cents each!! Bud.

[ginzokid]

Great idea Bud. I'll check the SA store which just happens to be next to the Post Office. We also have the Great Canadian Dollar Store which has cheap jewelry too. Try "Blacken-It" by A-West or Micro Engineering rail weathering solution to blacken the chains. B-)

[nascarpetlover]

If it's cheap chain save on the expense and wear it for a couple of days and it will turn black on it's own. But that is a very good idea, and you never know what you may find in one of the stores. One guy told me about some trains at one, but they turned out to be in HO HO gauge. LNF

[montanabud0]

Probably not a new idea to many, but maybe to some - I save my worn out toothbrushes and use them to help removing stubborn bits of paint around rivets and other small details when stripping paints. I trim the bristles on some of the brushes to about half their length to add a bit more cleaning power. They don't seem to harm the details on any of the items that I have used them on. After soaking the item in the remover solution, I keep the toothbrush wet with it as I scrub. Seems to work for me. Bud.

[dl85vette]

Good idea Bud. I've done everything but that. I have the different packs of those little Testors "touch up" brushes and cut the bristles real short but they scrub a small area and you can't put a lot of pressure on them. The toothbrush idea sounds like it would be great for the long hoods on locos. And to think I use my old toothbrushes for detailing the car and truck and yet I completely forgot to bring them into my hobbies. dave

[beastranger]

I use one of those old powered toothbrushes just cause I'm too lazy to scrub. Actualy it works pretty good for all the stuff Bud and dave mentioned. An old electric razor with a sideburn trimmer works ok for trimming hayfields and pond grass. Punk