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The OG Tipster

Hi everyone. I'm the OG tipster. Actually you all are the OG tipster. Here's my idea. We all have tips from time to time to share with each other. Why not have a special place to post these. So I have created a new member, the OG Tipster. You all can use this ID and here is how. Log into ebay as: ogtipster. The password is: ogone1. Once you are in you can post pictures to go along with the tip. The pictures will still have to be approved, but we are usually fast there. Tell me if you like this idea. So here's the first tip which I modified from an article in O Gauge magazine. "Easy and affordable building lighting." Using a brass rod and affordable Life-Like lamps with wired sockets 433-1215, you can follow the schematic for construction. Replacement screw-in bulbs are 433-1213. Bend the brass rod to form a loop and right angle at the bottom. Make it long enough to go up through a 3/8" round hole in the benchwork and into the building. Cut the socket lead off the socket and solder the socket to the brass rod. The other lead comes from the bulb. Insert the assembly from below and secure with a screw acting as a contact terminal. See schematic. These can be connected to any lighting bus in parallel. The result is easy replacement of a burned out bulb and no disturbance to the building and surrounding scenery.
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The OG Tipster

I forgot to mention in my thread about the toothbrushes (after all, I am 78 and do have these "Senior Moments" from time to time) - I use Pine-Sol as the solution to remove paint from plastics. I used to use Brake Fluid, but found that it had a tendency to craze some types of plastic. Pine-Sol doesn't seem to do that, although I test each piece on the back before applying it to the good side. I have left some stubborn pieces overnight in the Pine-Sol without any problems, but be sure to Test first so you don't ruin a good part!! Bud.
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The OG Tipster

I tried Pine Sol on my Kato and I wasn't too thrilled over it. One it stinks, makes my stomach turn,(coming from a guy that likes Testors enamel petro based paints and rubbing alcohol) I let the loco soak for few days but seemed to be real slow and detailed areas (vents) were stubborn even with scrubbing) I think I ended up switching over to Castrol's "Super Clean" Atlas and L/L strip great with 99% isopropyl alcohol. dave The dancers strip great when I have alcohol here in the Peg. 😉
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The OG Tipster

And now for a real tip. Don't throw away those used tea bags. Let them dry out thoroughly by spreading out the tea leaves on paper towels. Then use these leaves for ground cover under your trees to achieve the fallen leaf look and forest ground covering. They can be held in place just like ground foam with diluted glue or matte medium. Put some in the corners of your alleys and along the foundation of the buildings here and there. Just look around and see where fallen leaves reside and copy nature. Free ground cover! What a concept! B-)
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The OG Tipster

A DCC story and tip for those with/getting DCC. ***Take your handheld or whatever part(s) to the electronics shop with you.*** These folks know nothing about our little trains This is not an insult, but rather shows them what they are dealing with and will help them tremendously. If you recall my story about the cable for my Prodigy system/handheld, I took the parts back today and took my handheld. I showed the lady the parts I wanted to return and showed her my handheld and explained what was happening. Turns out the cable the guy sold me is the round twisted style computer data cable. She took a look on the shelf and there was 10ft long flat data cable with male RJ45 plugs on both ends. So I realized then that I could keep the female-female receptacle for plugging the cables into. I asked her if they had any sort of faceplate for it. I was dreading a faceplate that you had to crimp the connections onto using the $50 crmpers. Turns out they had faceplates like what you would have on your walls at home and sold these small 90 degree bent female-female jacks that clip into place. Not only that but I could get a 1,2,3 or 4 jack faceplate so you could plug in a couple handhelds in the faceplate/jacks. So now I can drill some holes and have a neat faceplate on the edhe of layout table. Got home here and plugged everything in and my little trains work. Woohoo!!! Should have brought the handheld in the frist time. Pete, you would love this store. Everything from resistors,capacitors,Ics to Circuit board material, soldering equip,meters,scopes, chemicals and sprays for electroincs work, cable assemblies, 4 ft long strips of heatshrink in every diameter size and color. Makes Radio Scrap look like toys r us. dave Extended mobility handheld dude
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The OG Tipster

Here's a great weathering technique that I just read in the Daily Moose. UNCLE FRANK'S BACK ALLEY CHAT by Frank Bernard , Long Island, NY How many times have you wanted to create those wonderfully rusted, crusted detail castings? You keep trying, but no dice. Here is my foolproof (I think so) technique that I use. It is not totally my original idea but rather a collection of pieces from other well known modelers. Here it goes: 1) Prime the castings with Floquil Concrete. 2) After they have dried for at least a week, spray them with Dullcote. 3) Immediately drop them in a bag or container filled with Rottenstone and shake them around. Rottenstone is a product that is used by furniture refinishers. It can be found at hardware stores. Here is a link to an online provider. http://www.cheyennesales.com/catalog/behpumice.htm 4) Take them out and let them dry (about ½ hour). 5) Brush off the excess Rottenstone. 6) Then use a thin wash of rust colored acrylic paints on the casting. (Lane Stewart from the Narrow Gauge & Short Line Gazette used oil paints. I will try this too.) 7) While the castings are wet, put on more of the Rottenstone by loading a paint brush and tapping it to have the Rottenstone fall onto the surface. 8) Once dry, again brush off the excess. 9) Keep repeating this process until satisfied with the build-up. 10) Next it is time to use the paint pigments. The pigments are from the Sennelier company. You can find them at most good art supply stores (Pearl Art is a good one.) The colors that I used are Raw Sienna and Burnt Umber. Get some wet water and dip a paint brush in the water then into the pigment and brush it onto the casting. 11) Do this several times building up the layers of color. 12) Finally, give the castings a good dose of ink wash (2 teaspoons to a pint). 13) As a final touch, dry brush the casting lightly with antique white paint. It sure seems like a lot of work, but I like it. The technique is basically building up texture then building up color.
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The OG Tipster

Here's the link to the whole Daily Moose. http://barmillsmodels.com/dailymoose_05_06.html Enjoy looking at the products and the entire article. B-) & :x
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The OG Tipster

crazyd37
Enthusiast
Thanks for the link Pete! The pictures sure do look real & rusted with this process. I did check out from that Cheyenne site & what rottenwood is: "Rottenstone is one of the finest substances used in wood finishing. Primarily used to polish a lacquered or varnished surface after a coarse rubbing with Pumice Stone." So now we all know. It still seems like a long process, but once you see the pictures, it may be worth it in some areas of the layout. Thanks again for sharing. Dot
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The OG Tipster

Wouldn't it be easier just to coat the part with a 50/50 glue mix and drop it into the appropriate colored powder? Just wondering, it seems like a lot of work unless you are doing multiple pieces at once. Punk
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The OG Tipster

A simple amd inexpensive method of building cliffs - break some old ceiling tiles into strips, stack them on top of each other with the broken edge outward. Looks a lot like a cliff face with stratified layers. Can be painted if you wish. Bud.
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The OG Tipster

To add to Bud's post re: ceiling tiles. Once they are glued together you can smooth them out a bit using a coarse wire brush. Takes away the definite glue lines where you join them and uniform tile thickness. I use a wash of earth tones to color the exposed tile faces. You can also tilt them to indicate different types of rock striations like tectonic plate upheaval. B-) 7 :x
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The OG Tipster

I save the stems from the grapes and let them dry well. They make pretty good tree trunks and you can cut them to different sizes and shapes (easier to do before they dry out). When dry they can be painted to simulate birch by using white and grey paint, or browns for other types. Use White glue to attach small pieces of chopped up foam of different colors, depending upon the time of the year you are trying to achieve. Cheap and fun too! Bud.
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The OG Tipster

Marc I use the Household vacuum with a piece of 1/2" hose taped inside the crevise tool and a paint brush to dust the units, track and buildings, Just take extra care if you have a lot of loose bits and pieces laying around on the layout. A pice of hose about four feet long works well as it is nice and flexable and easy to handle. Jack
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The OG Tipster

or what I have seen is one of those battery powered computer keyboard vacuums. NO DAMAGE to the cars. Probably not strong enough for layout work, though.
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The OG Tipster

I also have one of the Radio Shack handheld vacuums and it doesn't do to bad a job but you have to be carefull as the dust or grass that gets in to the switch and then it's take it apart clean the slide switch and away you go again. The secret seems to be to clean the collector a lot. When clean it will even pick up track nails and it comes with a brush head and a long nozzle. What more can you ask for at 8 or 9 dollars. Jack
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The OG Tipster

I save all my old toothbrushes and use them to brush the dust off my rolling stock. The bristles are usually soft enough through use so that they don't damage the units. Bud.
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