05-23-2007 04:58 AM
05-07-2011 03:53 PM
05-08-2011 08:47 PM
05-30-2011 06:52 PM
05-31-2011 12:51 AM
05-31-2011 06:55 PM
06-04-2011 05:00 PM
07-24-2011 04:26 PM
I started today of tearing up one of my yards. When I get done, there won't be one piece of original track from Nova Scotia as I have revised other sections last fall. This time around, I won't start ballasting track until I am happy with layout. I thought the unimaginable, I might just venture out into the recroom along a wall for a storage yard about 8 inches wide and 10 feet long 😄
It would be nice length of yard for storing my coal trains.
Yesterday I bought some cork and flex track and some new lumber. I'll try to salvage what I can but better safe than sorry having spare lumber on hand.
08-11-2011 10:14 PM
How about a goofy bracket:
I cooked it up from studying wooden hopper photos like this one:
http://einhornpress.com/images/CONSOL-3%20LNG%20COAL%20CAR.bmp
from this site:
http://einhornpress.com/ConsolidationCoalCompany.aspx
It is related to my coal railroads in my area of interest, and these would have rumbled past Narrows Park. I am drawing up the hopper for an experiment with Shapeways in 3D printing.
The bracket will just be a little blip on the N scale model, but I drew it full scale to see if I could get a better understanding of what I thought I saw in the photos.
All the best,
Charles
08-17-2011 04:42 AM
Well I finally did it. I weathered two cars for George's layout. A set of two gons. Now if I can only get the pictures to post, you guys can see them. I have never weathered before, so I'll be glad to receive any suggestions.
B-)
08-17-2011 09:24 AM
The pictures are in the attached albom.
Good work Pete on your first WX'ing attempt. It's one of those things that's easy to catch on to.
Gon on the right looks good. Ok, Both are actually good, left one looks like it worked in a steel mill as they get the rusty orange look from the heat/chemicals/air.
However, when doing rust, avoid the brighter orange rust color (powder,chalk,etc) Darker rust orange,browns and black work best. Older rust becomes brown and black. Best part of WX'ing a car is it takes a lot of effort to really botch the job. You can either wipe it clean and start over or work in layers. It's easy to add a new layer to cover a portion of something you aren't happy with. Rust splotches take some time perfecting and building up. (I've dabbed a small bit of CA glue and scuffed with sanding stick to get that rough scaley look after the brown/black paint added.
The next challenge to WXing is getting the lettering to take on worn,faded,chipped effect.
Usually takes several layers to produce the finished product. I've yet to apply a single weathering session and get the final product. I think Pelle Soeborg says the same thing in his book. "Done in a Day" is an excellent investment, If it isn't the weathering you have an issue with, it was worth seeing his method of doing something that you may have figured on your own or have a easier/better way.
Best advise is to take photos of WX'ed cars in a yard and note the patterns rust and wear/tear take on. Most cylinderical hopper cars weather in the same fashion, gons usually get banged up in a similar manner of other gons. Covered hoppers (square sided style- PS2 hoppers) rust and fade the same as each other. You usually won't see rusticle? (rust icycle) on a tank car, nor will you see the top half form a faded rust blend on a boxcar like you see on cylinder hopper.
Last is the travelling effects of WXing, not sure what else to call it, the weathing effect on a car from rolling along tracks for a period....spray kicked up from wheels, dust that gets blown up against the end walls, grease/oil/rust/dust accumulation around couplers and doors and trucks.
I enjoy doing general body weathering and rust and fade, but find the ends too tedious with respect to wheel spray.
Very last which some may be against but it is part of RRing, and that is grafitti. I hate the gang symbols and the stupid stuff like initials, gang stuff repeated along the length of car. I have some leniency towards murals.
Sorry for so lengthy but it is something I had fun in contributing to group for a change. When I get some time I will post some pics of my weathered cars.
Hope you try some more cars Pete. You will have fun on the next one. Then get brave and do a loco. It is worth the effort and adds to realism when you have dirty and/or old rusty cars in the fleet as opposed to a string of shiny cars.
-- Edited by dl85vette at 08/17/2011 7:51 PM PDT08-18-2011 04:29 AM
The one on the left was done with rust colored paint on the ribs and then I covered it with dullcote as a base for Bar Mills weathering powders. I used mostly the yellow, dark red and black powders.
The right one was done using Micro-Mark's "Rust n Dust" system of powder suspensions. You start with a light brown wash, then a black wash followed by a clear setting solution to which you sprinkle on a very fine powder that looks like dirt if left alone and grime if you smear it around.
I now have a set of Doc O'Brien's powders for the next project. There are 12 colors in this set. A much broader selection than the 4 from Bar Mills. I think I like the powders better than the liquids.
BTW, I did do the wheel splash on the ends of the cars. You just can't see it in the pictures. Now to find another car to destroy.......
I'll have to practice a lot more before I do any of my own cars and engines though.
😛
PS: I used a soldering gun to dent and bend the car sides. These two cars are meant for the salvage yard on George's layout.
-- Edited by ginzokid at 08/18/2011 4:30 AM PDT
-- Edited by ginzokid at 08/18/2011 4:33 AM PDT08-18-2011 02:00 PM
I've seen an article where they cut the panels out between the ribs and replace them with thin brass sheets which they hammered dents outwards to give that realistic dented bulges that a lot of gons have. I've yet to try heating those areas and bulge out on N scale.
08-19-2011 04:29 AM
I tried to bend out the sides by heating them with the soldering iron, but they melted before I could do the actual bending. I think maybe I'll try to hold the car over a flame to soften it a bit or over the soldering gun, then push it out from the inside. Don't want to overdo it though, except for one that maybe belongs in the bone yard itself instead of working it.
B-)
08-19-2011 06:08 AM
Hot water is usually the best way to bend plastic, just put the car in a bowl of boiled water, when it softens you can push it any way you want, I haven't used this on any trains but when I was customizing 25th scale cars I used the hot water trick to flair guards and put power bulges in bonnets(hoods) on quite a few cars, worth a try, nothing ventured nothing gained.
]:)
08-20-2011 04:34 AM
I'll try that but as you know, railroad car sides are a lot thicker than model cars. I'll let you know how it works the next time I do a gon or hopper. Right now I'm working on a few box cars.
B-)