Building With WS Foam Risers

[ginzokid]

As I mentioned in the other group, I am going to build my new layout with Woodland Scenic foam risers. You can see in the pictures that I have posted that the open grid bench work, which you can't see, is covered with acoustic ceiling tiles. This gives me the flat surface I need without having to cut a lot of plywood sub-roadbed and risers. Not much fun as you probably already know, especially on the curved pieces. And all those risers to cut and the splices to make. The WS system has to be simpler. Now comes the fun. Figuring out how much and of what pieces I needed. Well, I have a lot of foam coming. The real fun was figuring out the inclined risers needed to allow the proper clearance at the overpasses. I am using two different slopes, the 2% and the 3%, to get up to the clearance I need. What I also had to do was combine several different thicknesses of riser plus incline to get to the proper height. As soon as I get started and take some pictures, I'll post my progress. Meanwhile, if anyone has questions about the WS foam system, ask away. I think I have a good handle on it. Pete

[spottzz]

Pete, Sorry about this not being about "risers" but I am not getting the "search" option anywhere and the poll doesn't allow you to vote. Is something wrong on my end or is anyone else getting the same thing? Thanks, Bill

[g-pa1]

Pete I posted on the other site re a similar question. How do I go about getting a 3" space to clear N Scale trains going under if the risers only are offered in 2 and 4 inch heights. 4 seems to much and 2 not enough. I am looking at going with the two inch risers and adding a 2% incline and decline on the ther side. I am not sure if the 2% would be enough clearance. Now that you have studied the WS risers what do you think? Gene

[g-pa1]

Hey a new word ther a contraction of the and other!! Gene

[ginzokid]

Gene, Walthers Catalog page 167, 2004 version or Watlthers.com will show you that risers come in the following measurements: 1/2"; 3/4"; 1"; 2"; 4". The incline sets come in 2%; 3%; and 4% grade. Add what ever you need to make the height right. The nice easy smooth 2% grade incline set reaches 4" in height at the end of its 16 foot run. This is what you really want for your overpasses. Why? Because I am assuming you have some roadbed which will eat up vertical space between the top of the track on the bottom and the bottom of the structure above. Get My illustration? We are not talking about track to track distance here. There is always some structure under the elevated track. Right? If you have a bridge you will need less clearance, but if you are going under a track which has let's say 1" foam road bed foam under it, you better have that extra inch clearance. Need more explanation? I'll try to make it simple. Email me for a guided tour or get the WS video on their foam system. I found it very informative. And Gene, is it because you thought you would get more info in the other group that you posted your question there instead of here? I'm hurt. :( Seriously. If you feel more comfortable garnering information elsewhere, go for it. There is a broader base there. But we are learning and once I get more used to the WS system I promise you I will be my usual font of BS, oops, I mean information. One more thing. 2" clearance is enough, but try to get your hand in there. 3" is better. Pete :)

[janesew]

Gene, I'm sure Pete could explain this better using the correct WS terminology. You can cut and mix /match the risers to form any height you wish. I recommend that you not go for a steeper incline than 2%. If I could draw this for you it would be much simpler but I'll try words. Use the 2% riser to gain your 2". At the 2" end add a 2" block of foam (WS sells it to go with your riser kit or buy blue foam at the Home Depot) butting it with the riser "end to end". On top of that block add another 2% riser so that the rise from your starting point continues uninterrupted up over the block. Where this reaches a height of 3" from the "ground" (or 1" above that 2" block it is sitting on) simply chop the riser at that point, right through the 2" block. Does this make sense or am I not getting your problem? Pete will make it all clear. Help us Keep the Faith Godfather! Fred

[janesew]

OH FER CHRISSAAAKS!!! Pete was typing at the same time as me AGAIN. I hate when that happens!! We posted at the same time... AAAARRRRGGGG! Next time I'll just lie low and wait for our fearless leader Fred Actually I don't care really. La la la. He's a smart dude and full o' book learnin' I better read what ol' codlipskerryhater had to say! :-)

[janesew]

As usual Pete, excellent advice!! Fred

[ginzokid]

Gene, Before we get you all discombobulated, why not look into the WS video about the Sub-Terrain system. I'm sure your LHS or library has the video for rent or loan. I have the dumb thing if you are desperate. I'll loan it to you. I think there is also a cheap written manual you can get at the hobby shop about the system. Or you can wait for my ship to come in. Fred, Kiss my cod piece......know what that is? The Tired Leader

[janesew]

Yes m'Lord I do. Thanks for the offer but I'd much rather smooch the ring . Actually when I envisioned you in a cod piece, I knew something was a little fishy... Get it? Cod... fish... little fishy... little cod piece = little... Okay that's it! Sorry, I'm going to go take a swig of my "medicine" and hit the books. Fred

[beastranger]

Hey Bill, is Pete's little cod-piece smaller than your small radi ? Punk

[g-pa1]

Ok Pete and Fred et al, When I click on favorites I have two bay groups this one and the other one. Sometimes I am never sure which one I am in so I happened to type in the other one. I figured that someone would come to my rescue. Also there are times when I sign on and all I get are dates and number of replies and symbols but cannot access any of the areas. also when I try to see the photos I can only get the dreaded red x and no pics will appear. Then once in a great while I can see the pics. No rhyme or reason to it. Now to get to the situation. I am (eventually) going to have a flat semi oval LL power loc track going u nder an elevated atlas snap track that I will be putting on AMI N Scale roadbed . I want to put the elevated track on 2" WS risers and there will be two places that the lower track will be going under the upper one. If the two percent riser needs 16 feet of room then I will have to find another way I don't anticipate having the upper track much more than that. I guess I could put the 4" risers all the way around and not have to worry about inclines etc. but just oval track is kind of boring even with scenics. I do have the WS video about their products including how to use the risers and have watched it several times. It is informative. I am anxious to see your pics Pete. Gene

[70novahound]

Gene, How about three inch risers? You would just need the WS 2 inch, and glue it on to the WS 1 inch. Simple solution, or use 1 inch foam insulation. CJ The Z~Man

[untabubba]

Gene, The riser / grade thing has ME stumped TOO! To do it "right" does take alot of running distance to get a grade (slope) that won't bog your locos down. I have built a mountain / tunnel scene that requires me to get my track 3" up to get through the "gorge" over the mountain. I've been dithering over the best way to do it for months, it seems!! I have a bunch of 2" foam sheets. I did some calculations an cut a straight one piece riser 8 feet long. I just don't know HOW to incorporate it so it looks "right". I may chuck it and go buy the WS incline set. It's flexible and will probably be easier to fit in. I too am using AMI instant roadbed and a combination of Atlas snap and flex track. I also have some Bachmann E-Z track that I will utilize on the flatland track. Please let me know if you have a brainstorm! Marc

[ginzokid]

Gene, Let me try to understand. You have one route that is flat and another route that is raised 2" above that lower one. This means two trains running independently. Am I correct? If the elevated track is already up 2", all you need is to go up 1" more or a little less. I suggest using a WS Incline Starter #1415 which will take you up 3/4" in 2 feet of length. It is a 3% grade, so you might find a need for more engine power. The 2% Incline Starter only gets you up 1/2" in 2 feet. Next, where the tracks cross you can minimize your below track thickness by using a bridge instead of roadbed. I may be all wet here not being able to see what you are actually trying do, but I'm trying to visualize it. Does any of what I just wrote have any use to you? Pete