B4 it's a pain in the butt. It just started on me. first time for me in awhile thank you about the types so why do they say type 1 and 2?
Koin I do thank you for the help in deciding which way to go in coins.
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BGB....A type set is one coin of each type of coin such as one Buffalo nickel, one Jefferson nickel, one V nickel ect. When you might find a coin with a type 1 and 2 that would mean that the mint changed something such as on Buffalo nickels, in the first year they decided that the Buffalo was on too high of a mound of dirt (type 1) and so they redesigned the coin so that it was on a much flatter surface (type 2), so probably your type set book will require two Buffalo nickels to complete but you can get a Philadelphia minted coin in each type for pretty cheap.
Another example would be in the Standing Liberty Quarter series. The reverse on the type one has no stars on the reverse under the Eagle whereas sometime in 1917 the mint decided they couldn't live without some stars under the Eagle. I think a few other subtle things were changed as well but basically the stars were the most noticable thing to be added. Because they're silver and they're old and a somewhat small mintage and if you want both coins to be 1917 then it will cost you more. You could get a later date for the not Type, but Variety is what they call it in the Redbook. Before I even bought a coin I'd get the Redbook Guide to US Coins and have it as a ready reference when you want to know something. Tons of good information about coins in there and it will get you off to a good start. You can probably find one at a coin shop near your area or there should be plenty on ebay but get seems I heard the 2014 is out so get the latest one so that hopefully your values will be somewhat current. For someone just starting out and not buying too expensive of coins it probably would be ok but many times you can do better than the prices in the book but on some things you might get lucky to find a coin for the price listed.
When picking a coin, try to find coins that look natural, that aren't beat up and have gouges in them or big rim dings or hits. Of course, in lower circulated coins you might have to live with some of that unless you're very patient and wait for just the right coin to come up for auction. Even then, don't go above a set amount that you want to pay and if it goes to someone else, then they'll be another to come by...might take a little while. But, just do it to have fun and to learn, and if you don't have much money to play with, you can just practice bidding on some coins and see if you would have won had you had the money so that when you do get a little jingle saved up in your pocket you'll be more aware of what you want to spend. I myself almost never outright buy a coin and NEVER bid on a coin until about the last 5 to 10 seconds. That way I don't get cought up in a bid war and if I'm outbid, then so be it. For many coins that end at odd times I use a sniper bidding service to do my bidding for me so if a coin costs $100 then it costs me $101 when I add in the 1% that the sniper program costs. Anyway, just keep asking questions and if I'm around I'll do my best to answer them for you. The only way the hobby can survive is for us older folks (54) to keep recruiting younger ones to learn and enjoy the hobby...
There are three kinds of people in life....those that make things happen, those that watch things happen and those that wonder what happened. Which group do you belong?
