Sun 4-10-2022 7:56 p.m.
I have purchased many train items (particularly locomotives) from ebay, train shows, and a few hobbyists. Regardless of where the items originate, there is frequently a need for some kind of fastener to replace a missing fastener or a bolt / screw which has been stripped into some kind of pre-existing threaded hole. There is also a need for washers and bushings (for example, the bushings on Mantua steam locomotives which allow the eccentric crank to be tightened against the driver and provides for full actuation of the valve gear). Many locomotives are provided with shoulder screws - particularly on driver retainer plates on the bottom of steam locomotives. Shoulder screws perform two functions - they firmly hold the retainer plate in place and they allow the connection point on a pilot truck or trailing truck to swivel freely without and excessive slop. Using a screw with no shoulder does not firmly hold the retainer plate in place and allows excessive slop. It is a repair method used by rookies.
Measuring Equipment - I have vernier calipers and micrometers to help me determine fastener sizes. You might consider these instruments to be like a "calibrated eyeball." My vision is not the best and I depend on
my measuring equipment to help me properly identify the size a particular fastener.
Small Drill Bits - Some time ago, I purchased a variety of small diameter drill bits at a train show. The drill bits were designed to help manufacture printed circuit boards. I use the drill bits to create holes in metal stock so I can fabricate washers or tap metal stock for a particular hole size. I like the drill bits because they have variously-colored rings which help to identify the size of hole which whey will create. The down side is that the high-speed bits are designed for drilling through epoxy composites and are somewhat brittle. The small diameter bits are also like a hypodermic needle and require some care in handling.
Epoxy, Super Glue, and Threadlocker - It is a mistake to get epoxy, super glue or Threadlocker Red / Threadlocker Blue within 20 feet of any kind of fastener on a locomotive. Before doing such a dumb thing, stop to consider how you are going to take something apart which has been covered with adhesive. It is often necessary to take something apart for additional repair or servicing at a future date. That is where the use of fasteners beats the use of adhesives "hands down."
Japanese Brass Locomotives - PFM brass models are typically provided with M 1.0 (that is, 1.0 millimeter major diameter), M 1.4, and M 2.0 fasteners. Due to many problems with missing and stripped fasteners on my locos, I ended up purchasing a supply of Phillips Head M 1.0, M 1.4, and M 2.0 fasteners from China through ebay. I purchased fasteners which where longer than I needed. I cut the fasteners down with a hack saw as needed. The ratty cut edge on the threaded portion of the fastener can be cleaned up using a jeweler's file. Putting a hex nut on the fastener before trimming the fastener it will also allow for some clean-up of the threads after the trimming operation. I also purchased a variety of taps and dies so that I can create my own fasteners as needed. I used to have fits with the M 1.0 fasteners (particularly the shoulder screw variety) used on steam loco cross heads because they would "disappear" when I was repairing or testing a locomotive. That created a crisis when I did not have any replacement fasteners available. I also have the capability to work with other fastener sizes (for example, M 1.6). This helps when an M 1.4 fastener gets stripped out, and an oversize fastener is required.
Korean Brass Locomotives - Korean brass locomotives utilize a variety of fastener sizes. It is a mistake to try to force some kind of threaded fastener into a threaded hole which is not designed for the proper fastener.
Rivarossi Locomotives - I also ordered some M 2.5 fasteners from ebay to help me with my Rivarossi locomotive repairs. Rivarossi locomotives utilize a washer between the crankpin screws and the driver. Without the washers, the crankpins invariably come loose during operation of a steam locomotive. I make my own washers out of aluminum can stock (0.007 inch thick). I drill a hole in the aluminum can stock, cut the can stock with the hole in it out using scissors, mount the can stock hole on the end of a rat tail jeweler's file, and trim the outer diameter of the washer with a small pair of scissors. The outer diameter can also be filed down with another jeweler's file.
Manua locomotives - Manutal steam locos utilize a shoulder screw on the tender. I sometimes will take a piece of tin can stock or brass shim stock scrap and make my own bushings. I can also make nested bushings if necessary to get the proper annular thickness for a bushing. To make a bushing, I measure the size of the bushing I need. Then I design the bushing using the formula Circumference = (Pi) (Diameter) or (3.14) (Diameter). I scribe the dimensions of the rectangular stock piece I need using a single edge razor blade and my vernier caliper. Next, I cut out the rectangular piece using scissors. Yes, it is a small piece of metal. I use a pair of Kadee tapered pliers to form a U-shaped bushing. Then I slip the partially completed bushing over a small jeweler's screwdriver (a mandrel) and do the final shaping with a pair of needle nose pliers. Ta Da, a small tube or bushing results. I have a supply of long #2-56 screws which I use to hold Mantua Pacific (4-6-2) and Mantua Mikado (2-8-2) boilers on to the steam chest. I tend to make my own brass lugs for the wiring connection on Mantua tenders. I drill a 0.0935 inch diameter hole in a 0.005 inch thick piece of scrap brass stock and cut out a tear-shaped lug using scissors. I sometimes have trouble getting the valve gear properly installed on a Mantua loco. To keep things from falling apart, I use a #2-56 screw and a #2-56 hex nut to hold the steam chest (with the valve hear installed) on to the chassis.
Varney and Bowser Locos - I have drilled and tapped a variety of zamac models for #2-56 screws.
Regards,
ag01
