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model building

I am re-embarking on a new career of model building. Pete has been so helpful. It has been 30 or more years since my last building. I have started with a DPM kit..Corner Apothecary, which is plastic. After construction I am ready to paint. Want to use water based acrylics. Afterward have decals to apply. I have to order brushes, paints etc. Cannot airbrush (no facility). Where and what to buy and on line??? I am open to any and all suggestions. I also want to have it look weathered. What color paints...enamel/acrylic/primers/ brushes I need everything ? Is there a nice starter kit I can buy? Please guys I am open to all and any suggestions. Thanks and Happy New Year. I will post pictures of everything I build. Mel
Message 1 of 22
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Re: model building

I'm the wood master. Mel needs help from you guys who mainly build plastic and urethane DPM kits. Chime in please. I don't want to give wrong information. B-)
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Some acylic paints are out there such as; -ModelFlex by Badger- It's been out for a while now but I am new to using it as I am a car model builder origially. I am just starting to try it. -Model Master Acryl by Testors- I've experimented with this a little using it for weathering effects.Not too even brushing it on other than having to thin it some. -Polly Scale apparently made by Testors also. (just looked at bottle and realized that, considering I used it for a year now) ModelFlex and Polly Scale make their colors in railroad color codes (Rock Island Blue, BN Cascade Green, ATSF Tuscan red,etc) Most of my experience of these involve airbrushing.I like using PollyScale. Had great results with it. I found the bottles of Model Master Acryl I have are thick and goopy.Had to thin them out quite a bit with alcohol to get them to spray decently with airbrush. As mentioned, last decade+ been spent doing car models with petro based paints, so I am not a seasoned veteran with acrylics. ***Read the bottle for directions regarding thinning with water or alcohol and for ratios. I used 70% alcohol on some paints with no ill effects. I think a couple of boxcars I did dried that much quicker. :D Not sure if this is the info you are looking for but thought I'd share that little vacant space in my head with ya. Check some of our threads ref to painting as I may have posted comments on paint as well as others. Dave
Message 3 of 22
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Hi Mel: JUst a tip - be sure to TEST the paint on the BACK of a piece of plastic that you are using to be certain that it does not etch the plastic. Most paints are safe, but some brands are inclined to etch, especially if applied with a brush. Bud.
Message 4 of 22
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Re: model building

crazyd37
Enthusiast
Read the directions. Then do it how you feel it will go together best! DPM are pretty easy and forgiving kits. I use all kinds of paint. (you should see our collection of paints!!) Most of them I thin down with the appropriate thinning liquid. (water, thinner, alcohol etc) Even cheapo Walmart spray paint works just fine for some applications. Just be very, very careful and stingy with it! Floquil, Polyscale, some craft paints, some testors, etc, flat or shiny depending on the area to be painted. (dull cote or seal them when finished too) (just watch that you don't get any on the windows, if you do, consider them "weathered" because you won't get it off of them!) India ink & alcohol for some weathering. Other weathering depends on the color desired. I use any paint that I want to gain the weathered color desired. Again, thinned out ... alot. I usually paint most of the structure BEFORE I build it. I touch up anything after it is assembled. Painting the inside with a dark gray or black looks better if you are going to light it. Room dividers look more relistic this way too. Oh, and after I put the windows in, I install curtains, shades, etc before putting it together too. Thin, natural hair brushes for most of the painting. I don't like to airbrush much, but it does do a nice job when it is a big structure with lots to paint. Just tape behind the windows & doors so you don't get any overspray! You can buy canned air if you don't have a compressor. All kinds of masking type tape and thin, pinstripe tape works for some of the finer painting if you don't have a steady hand. (Like me!!) Make sure you don't have any paint where you will be gluing things together. It makes a mess, trust me! I scrape any off with my knife or some thinning liquid if I get some on by mistake. I also use a big lighted magnifying glass (and reading glasses) and one of those extra pair of hands. You'll need tweezers, clamps, files, toothpicks and many other things. I even have some dental picks for getting into the small, tight areas. CA glue, testors glue, etc and make sure you have the release liquid just in case. Paper towels, old t-shirts, etc for blotting. (and for spills, I am famous for that one!) Gosh, this list goes on and on and I didn't get it all down. Most of all, have fun. It took time to gather all of these supplies and I am still learning and gathering! DZ
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Re: model building

crazyd37
Enthusiast
Can't help you with decals. I have an in-house decal expert so I don't do them. You should see how they shrink and shrivel when I get my hands on them!!
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DZ: Thanks. Some great suggestions. Appreciate it. Mel
Message 7 of 22
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crazyd37
Enthusiast
You are quite welcome. Lots of what I have learned came right from this group. The rest was trial and error. And there was lots of error! Dot
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Rule number 1 no matter if it is a wood kit or a plastic kit is PATIENCE AND MORE PATIENCE. Do not try to rush any part of it, especially when you get close to finishing the kit. Rule number 2 do not expect the first few to turn out perfect. Ask Pete how long it took him to be as good as he is at building kits. Rule number 3 always refer back to rule number 1. LNF
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Just picked up a copy of Model Railroader's Kalmbach's 'BASIC STRUCTURE MODELING' by Jeff Wilson. Besides all the help from all of you, this book is exactly what I need. It is the latest 2005 revision. Thanks to all and Good Night. Have a great weekend!!! Mel
Message 10 of 22
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The CodFadda needs help. How can I make spider webs for the ghost town buildings? I was thinking about hiring some real spiders, but we couldn't come to contract terms. Those guys are tough negotiaters! Dave, Doug, Dot, Jack...anyone? SmileyCentral.com
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Thats a tough one Pete, Being as you only want very small webs maybe the web material they stretch out and use for halloween displays and then sprayed with a lacquer so as to hold the shape which would allow you to handle and cut out various shapes for location. Will have to give this some more thought on other materials. Jack
Message 12 of 22
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Pete. Do you have any old T shirts that are worn out? As mine were out they get very thin and start to get holes in them. The hole is not there yet but has gotten so thin there are just threads holding it together. Maybe you can cut out just that peace and trim it to what you need. How about using very fine sewing silk thread. Chuck 🙂
Message 13 of 22
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g-pa1
Enthusiast
Pete how about some very fine minature lace that has been sprayed with hair spray to hold it's set after you have gotten it to the required web shape? Maybe some of the lace you use for your curtains in your structures would work. Is there a doll house or a miniature store on the Rock? Perhaps they would have something. If all else fails use fine thread and then hairspray the form. Gene
Message 14 of 22
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Re: model building

g-pa1
Enthusiast
Pete check your email. Gene
Message 15 of 22
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