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MT conversions

I'm looking for some practical experience to help me begin my quest to convert many of my favorite cars from Rapido to MTs. I'm thinking it might be easier and better to just "swap out" the whole truck, rather than engage in hand-to-hand combat with those darn little springs! To that end I went looking and found there are quite a few types of trucks. How do I know which to use? Is there a prototypical protocol, or is it a matter of "taste"? Will they all fit? Also, I went, numbers in hand, to a very good LHS. I didn't tell the guy I had the numbers. I wanted to see what he would give me. Sure enough, he gave me a different number! I divulged the number I got from the MT website. He said they'd both work. I took the ones HE suggested and it was a breeze! No alterations required at all. So, what's up with THAT?? I'd appreciate any suggestions, stories or help anyone can give. Marc
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MT conversions

Thanks Pete, I'll check into it right away. Marc
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MT conversions

I just made a mini-score from the LHS. I purchicated a pack of #1134 for the Bachmanns, 1135s for the Life Likes and a 1059 Tap & Drill set. I didn't buy the 1165 "full pilot" conversion as I can try to install a 1016 on the back of a loco to see if I can do it first. (Besides, I can get those cheaper on-line.) The guy at the LHS says I need a "pin vise" to utilize the tap and drill. I got myself a Micro-Mark catalog and I see a pin vise in there. Do they come in sizes? Would Walthers have such a critter? (That way I could roll it in with other items in a larger order. 😉 ) I must admit I am a tad intimidated by the 1135 thing. It seems I have to "dislocate" the trucks to do the conversion........I don't know........ What about this pin vise business. Is that the best way to go to drill and tap? Marc
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MT conversions

Marc, Pin vises come in various sizes and configurations. I have several kinds and use them according to how my hands feel the day I use them. Most come with one or two reversable "chucks" which actually hold the drill bit or tap of various size. My personal favorite is the Mascot 230-811 swivel head pin vise. It has two reversable chucks that give you 4 choices of drill holder. You will need this tool for your drill and tap stuff, and to just drill small holes where a Dremel is too fast and too powerful. Check the Mascot on line at Walthers and compare it to the pin vises at Micro-Mark. I just read the instructions for the 1135 conversion. What do you mean by "dislocate" the trucks? Of course you have to be careful of the pick-up wires, but I don't see any mention of "distortion" anywhere. Marc, I'll be honest with you. Sometimes it just isn't worth the time, trouble and expense to convert these cheap engines. This 1135 conversion involves the pesky MT metal coupler insert which is universal to most of the bargain basement locos and cars of the early days of N scale. It's a pain do do and seldom gives great performance, but it does work to some extent. The 1129 and 1139 are similar. Any time you have a doubt about a conversion, you know where to send it. I can and will do them all. B-)
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MT conversions

Pete, Thanks for the heads-up on the pin vise info. I get right on it. As for the conversions, it says I have to "unpin" the truck and remove the side frames from the power trucks (or something like that)....I don't even know what that means!! I'm sure I'll figure it out after I study the loco and the supplied exploded view that came with the loco. Pete, I know these are not Kato, or even Atlas, locos, but they are "on-hand". (read: paid for) They run okay and if I can enhance them with MTs, more the better. Besides, it might also increase their resale value, while giving me valuable modelling experience. Another thing is, these models are not readily available in the roads I want by the "big guys". It's not easy to find Atlas or Kato E and F units. (Did they even make them?) BTW: I just scored two beautiful Atlas B&O GP9s on ebay for $71.00! (Cheapest new price I could find is $60.95 each) The one was advertised as "less than an hour running time" the other "never run". One is the TT and the other Phase II. Just what I like! I will give the conversions a try since I already bought the couplers, but I plan to sell off the locos from roads I am no longer (never was?) interested in; like Milwaukee Road, CB&Q and Erie Lackawanna. Marc
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MT conversions

Marc, The truck is held in by a small silver colored pin that goes through the top of the gear tower and usually holds the center gear in place too. Usually this pin juts out both sides and fits into a slot in the split frame of the loco. All you have to do is take the shell off and loosen the two screws that hold the split frame together, just a little bit, until the truck falls out. Be careful not to break the wires soldered to the truck. If by chance you do not have a split frame loco, the pin will go through the entire chassis and gear tower. You will have to push the pin out to let the truck fall out. Be careful here that you do not lose the center gear. Then proceed with the conversion. Good luck. B-)
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MT conversions

Pete, It even says on the instructions NOT to lose the gear. I think they call it a worm gear. Like I said, I read the directions only briefly, and I wasn't even looking at a loco at the time. Now I'm here at school writing from memory. I'm a pretty bright guy. I'll probably figure it out, but your words of experience sure help build my confidence! Thanks, Marc
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MT conversions

Marc, Go to the Bachmann web site and order their parts catalog that has all the exploded view diagrams of their engines. This will be a great big visual help. Also do the same for Atlas. Be sure you get the "parts catalogs", not the product sales pitch stuff. You know where to send them when you mess up. B-)
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So, Blane, Did you get the 1152 yet? B-)
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MT conversions

Not yet, I'm headed to the coast tomorrow and have been invited to a train shop mail order business. I'll be looking for the 1152's and will report on my venture upon my return. BB
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MT conversions

I hope I am in the right thread for this question. All of my new engines come with Accumate couplers and all of my rolling stock is not compatible with them. 1. Is it easier to convert the engines over to the old style, or convert the rolling stock to the new style? 2. If I convert the rolling stock, should I stay with the Accumate or go with the Mague-Matic couplers? (Miroc Trains )? 3. Is it hard to convert the engines over to the Mague-Matic type couplers? The reason for the questions is there is a person on E-Bay selling the Mague-Matic couplers on Bettendorf trucks with medium shank for $3.50 a pr. in bulk lots of ten sets. #34.99 + $3.50 s/h. 4. All of my passenger cars are lighted and of course need to be converted also, which means I have to change just the coupler unless they make pickup trucks with the new couplers which I have not been able to find. Would this be a hard conversion? I hope I have given enough information here for anybody to help me. I hope you know what I mean by old style couplers. The kind that has the pin sticking down. Sorry for not knowing what find these are. Chuck ?:|
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MT conversions

Chuck, In my opinion, the Accumates are perfectly compatible with the MTs. In fact I think they are just Atlas' "knock-offs" of the MT design. Some people have complained about the performance of the Accumates, compared to the MTs. First, get a pair of MT trucks and make yourself a couple "conversion cars" by putting an MT truck on one end and leaving the old Rapido on the other. That way you can run your trains with your Accumate fitted locos while you work on the rest of your conversion program. I have just recently completed converting ALL of my stuff to MicroTrain trucks and couplers, except the lighted passenger cars. (More about that in a moment.) I think, once you've experienced running trains with Micro Train couplers, trucks and wheels, you will NEVER "go back"! They are so smooth and make the cars very "light on their feet"! They just seem to glide over the track! I would advice you to try a few different types of MT trucks (with couplers) and see what you think. Try the short shank as well as the medium shank. I've used almost all short shanks and I've had no problems at all, even on my (many) 9 3/4" curves. It makes the cars sit much closer and more realistic looking. The type of truck (Bettendorf, Roller Bearing or Barber) will be determined by the "era" of the rolling stock. (Although the "Truck Authenticity Police" have never visited my layout to check up on me!) ;) Most rolling stock, like Atlas and Life Like, it is as simple as pulling the bolster pin, removing the old truck and popping the MT truck right on.....done! I'm talking seconds here!! Other makes of cars can be more problematic! Bachmann, for example, uses screws to hold their trucks on! AND, to add to the fun, the "mounting post" (for lack of a better term) is too fat and the MT opening will not fit over it. Therefore, without major creative surgery, all of your Bachmann cars are pretty much useless. Others have funny "split mushroom" mounts, etc. I just picked out all the "regular" bolster pin cars and did them right away and put the problematic cars aside for future consideration....or maybe auction. As for Locomotives. There are guys out there that are wizards when it comes to performing the required surgery to swap out truck mounts. I have only ventured into the body mount types myself, using the MT-1015/1016 types on many of my Life Like locos. You can buy them already assembled, if you don't have eyes like a hawk and little tiny pointed fingers! I should know, I assembled about 20 of them....pretty tedious. Once you get the hang of it they aren't hard; it's just that the parts are so very tiny! As for the lighted passenger cars, I haven't "gotten that far" yet, myself. MT does not make an electrical pick-up truck, that I'm aware of. I've stared at the truck mount couplers on my lighted Bachmanns and just put them back down. One of these days I'll suck it up and tackle them. What make are your lighted cars? Well, there you go.....jeeze, I may have even outdone Pete on this long-winded answer. It's just that I have become a total devotee of MT equipment and I think they make a world of difference in the quality of ones model railroading experience. I hope you find my info useful and encouraging........ GO FOR IT! Marc 😄
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MT conversions

I'm very proud of you Marc. Good information. Chuck and Marc, the Bachmann lighted cars need a coupler only conversion usually using the 1128 or 1129 by MT. There are no MT metal wheels as we know, so you have to do it the hard way. Chuck, those couplers with the plastic pin hanging down are called Rapido couplers. Accumate and MT couplers work well together. It is only a matter of personal preference. The price you quoted for a 10 pack of MT couplers can usually be beaten by the on-line discount houses. Check those out before you bid on the listing. Try: www.4nscale.com or www.internethobbies.com or www.internettrains.com or www.standardhobbies.com or do a google search. I'm always available for conversions of anything if you are stumped. Cars and locos. You just have to be willing to pay the shipping and parts charges. Pete B-)
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MT conversions

Thank you Codfadda! I have learned at the knee of the master! Once Chuck tries the MTs, he'll "get it"! Thanks for the numbers for the Bachmann conversion! Marc
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MT conversions

Those are the old numbers Marc. If you need the new ones, go to the MT web site for the conversion list. Basically what those conversions involve is the twisting out of the Rapido coupler and the insertion of a metal housing which holds a MT t-shank two part coupler. These are early designes by MT, but tried and true for this situation. Trouble is they really don't work as well as the newer designs. I might suggest to you and Chuck that you twist out the Rapido and twist in Red Caboose or Precision Masters fixed but prototypical couplers. You can use these very well in passenger consists that will be semi-permanently coupled and do not need magnetic action. These fixed couplers give you close coupling and prototypical looks with a lot less work or expense. Walthers part number: 629-51000 short black, 629-51005 short rust, 629-51010 med black, 629-51020 long black. Your other choice for Bachmann is cut off the Rapido coupler and its box and body mount a MT 1023 (assembled), 1025 (kit) or 1027. A 1015 can be used, but since there is not draft gear box like that included in the other numbers, this coupler may twist on its mounting screw. Toonie time! B-)
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MT conversions

Thank you Mark and Pete. I am going to have to print this page to injest all this information. The cheapest I can find the Mague-Matic is $4.25 a set, but I have not checked any of the web sites offered here execpt 4nscale.com. Thanks again for all the help. Chuck 🙂
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