MT conversions

[untabubba]

I'm looking for some practical experience to help me begin my quest to convert many of my favorite cars from Rapido to MTs. I'm thinking it might be easier and better to just "swap out" the whole truck, rather than engage in hand-to-hand combat with those darn little springs! To that end I went looking and found there are quite a few types of trucks. How do I know which to use? Is there a prototypical protocol, or is it a matter of "taste"? Will they all fit? Also, I went, numbers in hand, to a very good LHS. I didn't tell the guy I had the numbers. I wanted to see what he would give me. Sure enough, he gave me a different number! I divulged the number I got from the MT website. He said they'd both work. I took the ones HE suggested and it was a breeze! No alterations required at all. So, what's up with THAT?? I'd appreciate any suggestions, stories or help anyone can give. Marc

[untabubba]

Pete, I've been running a 15 car consist with no problems. As I said, without anything for comparison, I've assumed the MT cars come with short shanks. Do you (or anyone else) know if this is true? They are pretty darn close to the car body! As I am running early-mid diesel era, I am going to try to stick to 40'ers. It seems that the 50'ers are more modern; according to the MTL blurb on the inserts. Can you or the Prof comment on this? I'll for sure, let you know how this "Grand Experiment" turns out.... Marc 😄

[untabubba]

All the trucks have been installed. They look and run maaah-va-lous, dah-link! (Billy Crystal) I am going to get in big trouble with "The Boss", because I am now totally addicted! I MUST convert ALL of my cars immediately! All available funds will be, hence forth, p*ssed away on MT trucks and couplers! The onliest "fly in the ointment" is the Bachmann cars have a screw holding the trucks on. The mount where the screw goes is too wide for the opening on the MT truck. I guess I'll have to grind them off and tap a hole for the MT bolster pin! A little creative reconstruction. Unless anyone has experience with a better way. Marc....in MT heaven :D 😄 😄

[ginzokid]

Marc, MT cars usually come with short shanks, unless they are the longer cars like 89 footers. Bachmann cars can be converted by using another technique with the MT 1128 or 1129 coupler replacement kits. These are a pain in the butt though. I usually just changed Bachmann cars to a fixed non-operating coupler by Red Caboose. These just twist into place instead of the Rapido coupler. Then I left these cars connected at all times in the middle of a consist. Otherwise, you have to plug the bolster hole, cut or file it down flat, tap a new hole for the MT pin and possibly use shims or washers to adjust the car height when installing the MT trucks. Too much trouble for the "cheap" Bachmann cars in my estimation. Are you converting any passenger cars? B-)

[untabubba]

Pete, I will look into the Red Caboose couplers. Are they just called "fixed knuckle couplers", or something? I know the Bachmann's aren't the greatest, but I have a number of them and many are "different", i.e. hoppers, tankers, gondolas, flats, etc. See, most of my "real" MTL cars are boxcars. I'd like the B-manns to add "interest" to the consist. I'll check into the MT 1128/1129s too. Why do you say they are a pain? Yes, I am converting passenger cars. I have 5 Amtrak cars that won't ride over the "guards" of my Atlas turnouts. I discussed this earlier. Three I know are Con-Cor. The other two, I really do not know! The 2 "mystery" cars are 6 wheelers. I bought one set of MT silver trucks, #1018S. (That's all the LHS had on hand.) I had to take the car apart and place a "collar" inside to accommodate the narrower MT bolster pin. I also had to screw the "adjustable" coupler assembly to the truck frame. Boy, does it glide nicely now! I can't wait to get the others done! The 3 Con-Cor cars are 4 wheel trucks and it looks like I'll need 3 pairs of MTL-1017S for them. All in all it has been a very rewarding experience so far. Marc 😄

[untabubba]

Pete, Are they called "Unimate" couplers? http://www.nscalesupply.com/RED/RED-couplers.html My, they look corn-venient! I can see what you're saying about them popping right in the Rapido housing! Hmmmmm, great tip! I'm not to the "uncoupling phase" yet anyway. Marc

[untabubba]

Pete et al, I'm getting ready to place an order with N Scale Supply for some coupler stuff. I could save a bunch of money by buying the unassembled bulk pack of the 1015 couplers that almost all of my Life Like locos need. I'd get 10 pairs for $9.84 as opposed to 2 pair at $7.16! My question is: Do I have the "fine motor skills" to put these things together? Has anyone in the group ever done this? Marc

[ginzokid]

Marc, You are learning. Yes to the Unimate couplers. The 1015 kits snap together with a little practice. MT makes a jig tool to help hold the parts together while assembling and I would definitely get their special tweezers to hold the two halves of the couplers together for assembly even without the jig. By all means get the bargain. You are learning as I said. You have already learned the pitfalls of Con-Cor bolster pins vs Atlas and MT. Even if you break a pair or two, you will be ahead. Remember my secret about the springs posted long, long ago...spit. B-0

[dl85vette]

I'm gonna cheat when the time comes to convert my stock. Buy the MTL trucks with couplers. I sold off most of my bachmann,keeping just a few favorites. Shoulda bought the better rolling stock from the get-go instead of the 15-year-old-ahm-etc-1 cent-auctions. Dave still learning

[trmwf]

There is something all you "learners" should have learned a long time ago..."you get what you pay for" so if you want better stuff then you have to pay for better stuff. Marc, like Pete said, don't forget the spit when assemblying those couplers. prof

[g-pa1]

Ok speaking of better stuff I just got back from a train show where I purchased a Kato RS2. I put it on the wonderfalls track with a bunch of freight cars and it pulls as well as the Kato f3/7( a hybrid body and chassis).I tried them both on the track and it is almost like having DCC. They both are about the same speed. I have to say Kato makes a nice product. I am ashamed to put my LifeLike GP's close by (not to mention the Bachmann steamer)! I also won a vinegar car on ebay. It is very distinctive. I know this is not DCC ready but do all DCC ready Loco's state so on the outer box information? Gene

[g-pa1]

Oh yeah Marc, I also had to make up a transition boxcar - one end rapido and one end MT knuckler to hook up to the Kato coupler. I choose to switch out the whole truck and coupler and pop in a replacement already assembled coupler/truck assembly. That sure is the way to go . No fooling with the springs ... or the spit Pete. I had to open up the boxcar and add some stick on weight to the car and it tracked much better. I've found that every light car I have that would derail hardly did so after I added some weight to it. Just a tip from a Newbie!!! Gene

[untabubba]

Oh yea Gene! Unlike people, with train cars weight is good! I have a couple "conversion cars" too. Marc

[ginzokid]

I'm copying this post here for your reference: Just in case anyone wants to know what the recommended weights are, here's the chart. Scale: Initial Weight: + Added weight per inch of length O: 5oz. + 1oz./inch On3, On30: 1.5oz. + .75oz./inch S: 2oz. + .5oz./inch Sn3: 1oz. + .5oz./inch HO: 1oz. + .5oz./inch HOn3: .75oz. + .675oz./inch TT: .75oz. + .675oz./inch N: .5oz. + .15oz./inch We also have a discussion called "RR car weights". There are pit-falls to just sticking on weight randomly. Each car must be analyzed individually. To enhance the ability to run longer trains, I personally prefer not to add weight unless it is absolutely necessary for proper tracking of that car. I have a postal scale for this surpose and I use press on fishing line weights and a spot of CA to hold them in place. You can update the less expensive cars with new trucks and couplers, but is it worth it in the long run? The Bachmann cars are usually no where near the MT or others in detail, printing etc. You can always sell off your earlier purchases here on ebay and buy the better equpment with your profits. I am like the prof. in that I hate to throw good money after bad. Save your coupler conversion money for the Con-Cor and other cars of value. B-)

[g-pa1]

Thanks Pete, for the above info. Is your shay a Bachmann? What kind of couplers did that come with and have you switched them out to Mt's? Gene

[ginzokid]

Yes Gene, The Shay and the Climax are both Bachmann, but remember, these are On30 scale, not N. The couplers that came on them are McHenry couplers, a copy of the Kadee couplers that started all this automatic coupling sensation many moons ago. I have taken the McHenrys off (they are plastic) and replaced them with the Kadee #5 couplers (all metal). Same with all my cars. B-)