Dry Transfers

[beastranger]

Every time I get a building kit that has dry transfers in it, there are never any instuctions on how to apply them. Decals we've covered quite a bit but never the transfers. Soooo just how do you apply the things??? Punk

[flaretired]

Ditto. These last kits I bought all have dry transfers. Would like to know also. Chuck 🙂

[ginzokid]

Dry transfers are just like they sound....put on dry. No water. They should be one of two kinds, and actually one is a misnomer. If they have a peel off backing, you just stick them on with the glue that is on the back under the backing paper. Also known as peel-and-stick. The other kind is also known as "rub-on" transfers. Ever used rub-on letters from those alphabet sheets? There should be a tissue like backing sheet that you remove. You put the sign where you want it to go and then rub on the face side with a stick of wood, a dull pencil point, a burnishing tool or whatever you have to rub with. Once the sign is released from the transfer paper, you do two things. 1. Take the tissue paper backing, place it over the sign and rub it down some more. 2. Seal the sign in place with Dullcote. If you are putting this sign on a brick or other textured wall, to make it sit down into the "crooks and nannies", you use the same decal softening solution (I like Solvaset) that you would on a decal. Then you seal it with Dullcote when dry. A note here: dry transfers are thicker than decals and will never snuggle down all the way. But they will soften up some with repeated aplications of the setting solution. And a warning: too much softening will result in the tearing of the transfer as it tries to stretch beyond its elasticity. While we are at it. Paper signs are easy to do also. You cut out the sign. Turn it over and use a light grade sandpaper to sand the back side until the sign becomes quite thin without getting holes or rips in it. This much thiner paper sign can now be glued to any surface with white glue and it will naturally settle down into the texture of a wall. You might need to coax it a little by pressing down on it with a damp sponge to get it into all the depressions. Don't use your fingers or any sharp object. Hope this helps.... The CodFadda

[flaretired]

Thank's for the info Pete. Mine are all rub-on. I hate regular decals. What I can't figure is I can soak a stamp off with all the glue on the back of it, but give me a decal and it tears, wrinkles or wraps it self around my tweezers. Go figure. Chuck 🙂

[montanabud0]

Hi Chuck: Sometimes I use a small, damp (NOT soaking wet) paint brush to handle unruly decals. I have found the brush with a flat end rather than a pointed end works the best. It won't tear the decal and will allow you to reposition it to where you want it, if you put a drop of water on the car or item beside the decal. When it is in place, dry the brush on paper towel and then use it like a blotter to soak up the excess water without moving the decal. Takes a bit of practice, but it works for me. Bud.

[ginzokid]

Good tip Bud. Also the corner of a tissue just touched to the excess water will draw it away from the decal. A warning though guys. Try not to touch a decal that has had setting solution applied to it. Even the softest touch with a brush can tear the fragile thin decal sheet. Chuck, You just have to practice the "art" of soaking a decal just long enough until it moves on the backing sheet, and then you gently slide just a fraction of it off the corner of that sheet, position the decal where you want it using the backing sheet as a handle and let that little exposed corner make contact with the car surface, then you gently slide the backing out from under the decal and with all the luck in the world it should be in place and ready for the setting solution etc. Actually it takes longer to explain it than to show you. B-)

[beastranger]

Thanks all for the info. Punk

[flaretired]

Will use all this advice to good use. Thanks all. Chuck 🙂

[dl85vette]

Get all your adjustment made with the decal for placement first, then apply setting solution as per Pete's instruction. Be very patient with decals too during cure stage. i was freakin out the first time I saw the wrinkling happening. They will snug down eventually after solution apllied. If you make adjustments after solution has softened them, if you don't tear them, you will stretch them and then they will have permanent wrinkles as they won't snug down perfectly anymore due to stretching. Found that out the first time I used aftermarket decals and solution on a nascar. dave

[ginzokid]

Further stuff. Once the decal has set and the surface is totally dry again, you might find a few air bubbles under the decal. Just prick them with a pin point and with a small brush, apply a small amount of decal setting solution to that spot only. Always wait until the decal is dry before you try to adjust any flaws otherwise it will tear and be ruined. B-)

[ginzokid]

I just posted a closeup shot of the old sign on the country store. This is a decal that I worked over to give it an old worn out look to. You will notice how it is settled over the battens and that was done by the use of the Solvaset softening solution. Also notice that there are rips in the sign and a missing letter or two in the words. This was done by the use of too much Solvaset on purpose and poking the sign in a few places with a toothpick. So, by doing what you really don't want to do, you get an old looking sign. There is also a dirty wash put over the whole building and the sign. B-)

[dl85vette]

here's one for ya Pete. What technique do you have/use if you wished to make the sign faded out like? Would the technique be different over brick? I haven't seen brick murals in any copies of MR that I have. your sign gave me an idea about a mural to put on the side of my brewing plant (over brick) I never done anything with signs/murals. just dirty locos. dave

[ginzokid]

Dave, It depends on if you are talking decals or paper signs. Decals are easy. Just apply them in the usual manner and then give them a spray of Dulcote. Wait until it dries and then brush on or spray on the usual ink/alcohol mix. The alcohol will frost the Dullcote and make the sign, and any portion of the brick wall also, look old. With a paper sign, sand it as thin as possible as I talked about before, then using white glue, put it on the brick or whatever surface and blot it down with a damp sponge. Once it is dry, you can even sand the surface further to make it look washed out. And the best trick is to put another sign over it. If you have really thinned out and surface sanded a paper sign, it will become almost transparent. Putting another sign partially over the first gives a real neat impression. You can also do a fresh sign scene with an old sign on the side of a building and a crew of sign painters installing a new sign over it. Get the picture? Tried to stump me didn't you.... B-)

[dl85vette]

thanks Pete. Some interesting ideas with the sign over a sign. I saw the ink/alcohol trick once in MR I think but it just gave a weathered dirty look to it. Perhaps this is my time to experiment and see what I can do for a sun bleached look. Can't really ruin a weathered building anyways now can I? If I mess the decal or drawing then I will try again over it. stay tuned.. And no I wasn't trying to stump ya. After being in this group for a while, There isn't much you don't know with the hobby or life for that fact. Not sure if anyone stumped ya yet. Trying to get rid of the rednecks' cat next door was a challenge on ya though. dave

[ginzokid]

But the cat is no where to be seen for a very long time......:D The I/A wash has been around since Moses. And it still works. There is another trick that I have not used but has been written up many times also. Actual sign painting on brick walls done in scale. B-)