We haven't been to this thread for quite a while, but today I received a "HELP!" email from Chuck regarding the DPM 13 structure kit he just bought.
Chuck, I'm afraid I have to say no to your request. I hope you can appreciate the fact that I need to allocate all my time to my own structures just in case my eye sight should suddenly fail as I have written about elsewhere. I must be selfish here.
However, you are not alone. This group is here to help you and that we will. First, a link to a book you definitely need.
http://store.yahoo.com/kalmbachcatalog/12258.html
This book, "Basic Structure Modeling", will answer all your questions about the DPM structures. Try you LHS first, or if you have to, get it from Kalmbach.
Briefly, to do the DPM kits, you need to follow their instructions about sanding the edges flat. The bevel molded in will prevent the walls from joining at 90 degrees unless you perform this sanding task first, before you do anything else to the kits.
Next, wash all the parts in mild dish soap, the metal parts too, to get rid of any mold release agent on the surfaces.
Prime the metal pieces with cheap grey primer in a spray can from Wally World or the NAPA store. You can prime the DPM walls if you want to, but it is not usually necessary.
Choose a basic solid color for the walls; tan, coffee, grey tones, reds, whatever you can get in spray cans. Again I use the cheap Wally World paints.
Choose contrasting colors for the areas you want to "decorate" and make stand out. These raised portions of the building are painted with "craft" acrylic cream paints by brush. These dry flat as opposed to Testors colors. What you are trying to do is high-light the arches around windows and doors, window frames and muntins and ornamental trims. Just look at the buildings in most NE downtowns. DPM structures are great copies of buildings from the 30's thru 50's.
Do this painting before you glue the walls together. If you are going to light the building, I suggest you paint the interior of the walls with flat black paint. This keeps any light from showing through the walls themselves. Block some of the windows with shades or totally black them out. This of course after you have installed the glazing per the DPM instructions.
The roofs of these structures are usually sheet styrene which you have to cut to fit. Paint these black or very dark grey to represent tar paper, then while the paint is still wet, sprinkle on some very fine dark grey or black ballast or real sand. You can also glue strips of fine sandpaper to the roof for an even more realistic look.
The metal parts, once primed, can also be brush painted with the craft paints. These parts most likely will be for roof trims, cyclones, vent pipes, a/c units etc. and go on the roof.
There is much more to the process, but this and the book should enable you to get started.
Remember that model railroading is not only fun, but a learning process. It teaches us new skills at every turn. So, Chuck, dive in there buddy. Get the book and ask questions as you go. Start with one small building and take your time. Before you know it, you'll be a DPM expert builder.
Anyone else who has some input for Chuck, please chime in here.
B-)
