10-29-2022 06:07 PM
Found this at my thrift today and I'm trying to understand it. It's an irony in that it has what appears to be real rubies but it's marked 925. Also, it doesn't seem to be too old because it has no signs of wear or tarnish - but I also can't find a similar one (I was thinking QVC).
The clasp is extremely unusual. Never seen one like it. I am calling it a keyhole hidden box clasp (I made that up). It has a ball on one half that slides into a slot and moves over to secure into a hole on the other half like a key in a keyhole. Then...the whole thing is secured with double security clasps, one on each side.
Prong set and channel set stones that are somewhat crudely faceted, open back, but has some qualities about it that aren't exactly what you would find in a very high quality piece. I would classify it as medium quality overall but with the Prong set stones that makes no sense.
One last question...some of the prongs are created by smearing the metal up on to the stone. I have other pieces that I know are antique that also have this. What is that technique called?
Any ideas at all on this piece would be appreciated. Anything at all. I bought it for myself to wear for the holidays so this is mainly curiosity and I have been googling for hours.
There is an antiquing in the metal surface behind the stones on the large sections which gives the illusion that the stones there are a different color and seem darker but in reality they are all the same color red.
the keyhole half of the clasp
the clasp
not sure if this is a mark. Small rectangle.
The whole piece is open like this to show the stones.
Marked 925
10-30-2022 11:18 AM
My mama went digging around and found a seller here on ebay that sells bracelets like this from India (except the clasp is still a mystery) so that sort of answers the origin query. I'm still curious about the smudge prongs though and if there is a name for that technique. Sorry to stump everyone but this was driving me insane 😳
10-30-2022 11:38 AM
This is a very pretty bracelet. They did a nice job capturing the Deco look. My impression is this was mass produced in possibly China, Taiwan, Thailand or India and sold on one of the home shopping clubs. The prongs on the stones are not claw prongs. They're positioned straight up and down rather than bending in to hold the stone. The larger white stones might be CZ's, white topaz or white sapphires and are probably glued in. The rubies are bead set. The darkening of the metal behind the rubies gives the piece a richer look and also hides the inclusions the rubies are likely to have.
The closure is interesting. I haven't seen one like that before. I can see why you bought it. This will make a beautiful holiday bracelet 😀.
10-30-2022 11:56 AM
The back construction does match India jewelry I see in my region of Canada.
I have not seen that type of safety clasp configuration before but it speaks quality to me.
The fact that this is marked 925 and maybe Rodium plated is a positive in my books. I have read many articles that state that even Diamonds are set in Silver now. The other color metal might be a Gunmetal finish which is popular. And the smear claw could be Pave setting.
I would have the stones tested to confirm. Besides CZs there are other quality clear stones that are used as a substitute for diamonds. I think it is worth checking.
10-30-2022 02:16 PM
thank you so much for your input. here is a close up showing the prongs on the large stone cradling it. No glue.
10-30-2022 02:18 PM
Thank you. It's a nice piece and driving me crazy. Maybe so new that others like it haven't reached the secondary market yet. 🤔
10-30-2022 02:22 PM
and here is a closeup of the prongs holding the smaller stones. It is hard to see but the clear stones are the ones with the smeared prong settings (already forgot what you called it)
10-30-2022 02:22 PM
You`re stressin over this waaaay too much!!!
Rather than make yourself ill over it..just send it to me...I`ll take on your burden 😄
10-30-2022 02:35 PM
Is bead set a good way to describe that smear type Prong? It literally looks like a melted metal smear. I have some actual jewelry from the art deco Era with that. I'll try to get a photo of that as well.
10-30-2022 02:53 PM
I really am! I spent 6 hours on Google. That ocd won't let me rest 😄🤣😂 I love it just the way it is
10-30-2022 03:05 PM
Bead set is correct. I have seen this type of clasp on bracelets coming from India in the late 80s. I had an amethyst bracelet with this type of closure. My bracelet only had one of these closures on it, but it wasn't as wide as your bracelet. My guess on the red stones are they are garnets rather than rubies, without testing it is hard to tell the difference sometimes. Very pretty piece.
10-30-2022 03:08 PM
If you're referring to the rubies, yes, bead set.
10-30-2022 03:08 PM
Thank you
10-30-2022 03:09 PM
India is making sense. Thank you so much!
10-30-2022 03:21 PM
A piece like that is labor intensive, so they're going to cut corners where they can. I think in the case of the small white stones the process involves filling the channel with hot metal and then pushing the stones in quickly, which causes the smearing/beading effect. The beading on the rubies was done more carefully.