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Approx date for silver Coro Cuff--updated with more photos

Reposted because my original photos were not showing up 🙂

Can anyone tell me about this unusual Coro cuff?  In case it's not obvious from the photo those are figural snakes on top of the center stone piece.  It's really throwing me off because it seems so unlike most Coro designs.  The only similarly shaped Coro thin cuff I found on the internet was reported to be from the 20s.  But this one seems more 60s/70s to me.  It appears tarnished so I am assuming it is silver although there is no sterling mark.  Are there other metals that tarnish in a similar way?  I'd love it if anyone has any information.  Thank you for the helpful comment about the mark being post 40s on my original post

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Approx date for silver Coro Cuff--updated with more photos

Wow!  Nice bracelet.  Stylistically, I would guess 1920s, maybe Egyptian revival.

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Approx date for silver Coro Cuff--updated with more photos

That is an interesting piece. It looks like a ram face with snakes. It has to be an early work. I can’t imagine them doing it later. If I see anything to help, I will let you know. 

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Approx date for silver Coro Cuff--updated with more photos

The Julia Carroll reference book - "Costume Jewelry 202, 2nd Edition" has an extensive section on Coro designs and I've looked all the way through it and I don't see anything similar.  Other than seeing where the thick slanted script "Coro" was first used in 1940.  Sorry about that.  It is an exquisite piece.  Let us know if you are able to find anything else on it.

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Approx date for silver Coro Cuff--updated with more photos

To OP:

From 1943 through the late 1940's Hector Aguilar produced jewelry for the Coro jewelry firm through an arrangement with the company's owner, Gerald Rosenberger. The jewelry was signed with a circular mark, Coro at the top curve, Mex in the middle and Silver at the bottom curve. Another circular mark was also used: Silver at the top curve, Coro in the middle and Mexico at the bottom curve. I would examine the mark carefully for signs, however faint or worn, that match the mark Hector Aguilar used for Coro jewelry produced in his shop. I can't see the mark very well in your photos, nor can I expand them for a better look, but the tiny photo at the top may be a match. If so, congratulations!!! You have a collectible piece. Aguilar worked for William Spratling prior to opening his own shop, Tailer Borda, which he operated from 1939 until 1962. He produced Coro jewelry from 1943 until around 1950. Some of the jewelry produced clearly has a strong Aguilar appearance, though he employed other highly skilled craftsmen, such as Damaso Gallegos and Pedro Castillo. If you want research references, see The Little Book of Mexican Silver Trade and Hallmarks, by Bille Hougart, and Collectible Silver Jewelry, Identification and Value Guide by Fred Rezazadeh. I hope this information is helpful.

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Approx date for silver Coro Cuff--updated with more photos

P.S.

Hector Aguilar produced jewelry for Coro from 1943 until 1950, to be specific, so your bracelet dates to that period. If not made by Aguilar personally, it was made by one of the master craftsmen he employed. You can research Mexican jewelry from that period for possible clues. Good luck with it. I think it's a beauty!

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Approx date for silver Coro Cuff--updated with more photos

Thanks so much for your response 🙂

 

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Approx date for silver Coro Cuff--updated with more photos

Thank you for the great information about Hector Aguilar.  Can you tell me if I sell this should I get this polished and the missing bead replaced or should I leave in the original condition?

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Approx date for silver Coro Cuff--updated with more photos

I turns out this may be nickel as it is appears darker than silver upon polishing. Now I am really stumped! It does not seem to irritate my skin as most nickel does. Could this be an alloy? 

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Approx date for silver Coro Cuff--updated with more photos


wrote:

Thank you for the great information about Hector Aguilar.  Can you tell me if I sell this should I get this polished and the missing bead replaced or should I leave in the original condition?


You're welcome. I would leave replacing the bead to a new owner's discretion. Polishing is a matter of preference. I like the look of age-mellowed patina, particularly on vintage jewelry. Others may like their silver shiny and have it professionally cleaned and polished.

 

The most I'd recommend for this bracelet is to clean it with a soft cloth dipped in a solution of warm soapy water. Squeeze the cloth so that it's only damp, not dripping. The end of a wooden toothpick wrapped in the cloth can be used to carefully clean the crevices. Avoid getting the section of inlay wet. After cleaning with soapy water, you would need to wipe the bracelet several times with a cloth dipped in plain warm water to remove soap and grime residue, then dry it thoroughly with a soft cloth. This should freshen it up. If you want more luster without removing the patina, a silver polishing cloth can be used to go over the surfaces once lightly, then buff with a clean soft cloth to the desired degree of luster. This process can be repeated to gradually increase the shine while maintaining the patina. Just don't immerse the entire bracelet in the soapy water solution. I would not use a liquid silver cleaning or paste solution, or anything abrasive.

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Approx date for silver Coro Cuff--updated with more photos


wrote:

I turns out this may be nickel as it is appears darker than silver upon polishing. Now I am really stumped! It does not seem to irritate my skin as most nickel does. Could this be an alloy? 


What product did you use to polish the metal? Unless the bracelet has an "Alpaca" mark, I would be very surprised if the metal is an alloy. Sterling silver jewelry made in Mexico during the first half of the 20th century, was often marked simply "Silver". This is considered an early mark.  I would think Coro jewelry made in Mexico during the 1940s, would fall into this category, though I could be wrong. To remove or satisfy any doubt, It might be best to acid test the metal. There are kits available on ebay that include instructions for doing this. 

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