Sun 11-22-2020 4:57 p.m.
I find it a bit annoying when I pick up an HO locomotive and the shell separates from the chassis. What to do?
Caution: Work Safely. Work with tin cans / tin can lids can result in cuts or lacerations, so be careful when working with or drilling tin can stock. Always hold on to the tin can stock with pliers during drilling. File any sharp edges with a jeweler's file (that is, break any sharp edges). If tin can lids are utilized, cutting out strips of metal can create sharp edges with points. Nip off the points with a pair of scissors.
Chassis Post-Type or Bar-Type Retaining Features
Drill a hole in a 0.007-inch thick tin can lid (that is, drill a hole which is slightly larger in diameter than the retaining post on the side of the loco chassis). For bar-type retaining features, it is necessary to drill out several holes and file out a slot in the tin can stock. With the hole or slot in the center, cut out a strip of tin can lid about 1/2-inch long and about 3/16-inch wide. Line up the hole (slot) in the tin can piece with the retaining hole (slot) in the shell. Using Super Glue (cyano-acrylate glue), glue the tin can piece on the inside of the shell (next to the retaining feature).
Kato Shells
Cut four each strips of 0.007-inch thick tin can lid approximately 1/8-inch wide by 1 inch long. The tin can strips need to be installed vertically above the locomotive trucks. The tin can strips need to protrude about 1/8 inch below the chassis. (Note: It may be desirable to paint the ends of the tin can strip red or some other color so they can be located at a later date if repair work is required on the loco.) It also helps if you write a note about the modification and keep it with the loco to assist some future owner of the loco.) Using Super Glue, attach the strips of tin can to the inside of the locomotive shell (above the trucks). Once the glue has dried, the protruding pieces of tin can may be bent so that they grip the chassis. The protruding pieces may be bent at a right angle or bent like the letter "J". Disassembly of the loco only requires bending the tin can strips so that they are straight.
Locos with a Butchered or Modified Chassis Components
Some "dillweeds" like to cut the retaining posts away from a locomotive chassis. They may also glue the loco shell on to the chassis. (Note: This creates problems when loco repairs are needed.) In this case, provide a 1/16-inch diameter hole or small slot in a desired location on the loco shell. Cut out a strip of 0.007-inch thick tin can stock. Cut two pieces of 1/16-inch wide by 3/8-inch long tin can strip. Near the end of each strip, make a right-angle bend about 1/32 inch long ("L"-shape). Take the foot of each "L"-shaped piece and position them back to back. (Note: The pieces of tin can will look something like the the vertical portion of the letter "E" with no top bar, no bottom bar, and a short middle bar.) Using Super Glue, attach the pieces of tin can to the chassis so that they line up with the hole(s) or slot(s) in the chassis. Repeat on the opposite side of the chassis. (Note: The strips should provide enough bonding area so that they are held by the super glue. If necessary, a portion of the tin can strip may be made wider of longer to provide more adhesion to the chassis. It may also be necessary to scrape away any paint on the chassis (directly underneath the tin can strip) to provide more adhesion of the tin can / chassis joint.
I like this approach better than trying to drill and tap zamac (zinc alloy) chassis components.
(Note: Handle your locomotives carefully if you try any of these modifications. There is always the possibility of a super-glue joint failure. A joint failure could result in the loco chassis falling away from the loco shell and landing on the floor.)
Regards,
ag01
Regards,
