The OG Tipster

[ogtipster]

Hi everyone. I'm the OG tipster. Actually you all are the OG tipster. Here's my idea. We all have tips from time to time to share with each other. Why not have a special place to post these. So I have created a new member, the OG Tipster. You all can use this ID and here is how. Log into ebay as: ogtipster. The password is: ogone1. Once you are in you can post pictures to go along with the tip. The pictures will still have to be approved, but we are usually fast there. Tell me if you like this idea. So here's the first tip which I modified from an article in O Gauge magazine. "Easy and affordable building lighting." Using a brass rod and affordable Life-Like lamps with wired sockets 433-1215, you can follow the schematic for construction. Replacement screw-in bulbs are 433-1213. Bend the brass rod to form a loop and right angle at the bottom. Make it long enough to go up through a 3/8" round hole in the benchwork and into the building. Cut the socket lead off the socket and solder the socket to the brass rod. The other lead comes from the bulb. Insert the assembly from below and secure with a screw acting as a contact terminal. See schematic. These can be connected to any lighting bus in parallel. The result is easy replacement of a burned out bulb and no disturbance to the building and surrounding scenery.

[dl85vette]

Good idea Pete. Also it is easier to sake a little container than that big jug. I took your idea and swiped ketchup dishes from BK a few occassions. They should last me a while. They are great for ballasting.

[crazyd37]

The rack I saved isn't the normal type of spice rack, although that is a good idea. I have the type made from rubbermaid or something like that, which is expandable. You can put small cans on it too. I used it for the larger bottles of spices. It has three levels. It is now in the train storage area of the basement. Now if only we could find the time to get to the rest of the demo in the train room. We have to remove the plumbing from the bar then take out the bar. Move electric from the bar, finish taking down the ceiling, get new ceiling, wall board, electrician, oh this list is getting depressing. I will stop now. I only wish I was able to do the bar demo alone. I need help with that as I won't do electric or plumbing myself. The rest I can handle. We really could use a few more hours each day!!! Did I mention the funds to complete or even start purchasing all the materials. At least once that is done, the layout will be the EASY part!!!

[ginzokid]

Save all your spice jars. You know, the big ones with the same shaker top as the WS products. Even the smaller ones are good for tight places. Ernie gave me back a couple of tip books that are OOP, RARE, MINT, VINTAGE, etc. which I will be going through just to post a few reminders in this thread from time to time. Who knows, by the time I get through you will have the whole book to save to your files. :^O

[ginzokid]

Who says you can't teach an old dog, me, new tricks. I finally got back to the brewery and in it was something that I have never used in my life for roofing, or anything else for that matter; silk span. That's right. The very same stuff that model airplane kits are covered with over the frames. Since I never built a model stick airplane, I have never used this stuff before. Well imagine my surprise when I read the instructions. Cut the silk span into scale 4' wide by 12' long strips. Lay the strip on the roof substrate and just paint it with an acrylic paint of a color you want. The paint soaks right through the silk span and glues it to the under roof structure and it looks like tarpaper or rolled roofing. Talk about easy! No more gluing strips of construction paper with messy white glue. You gotta try this! B-)

[g-pa1]

First I ever heard of silk span. Where would one get it and is it like fiberglass angel hair that we used to put on a Christmas tree? Gene

[ginzokid]

Gene, Any hobby shop that sells model R/C airplanes will have it. It's like a thick tissue paper but stronger and more pourous. That's why the paint will soak through it and ahere it to the underlayment. B-)

[g-pa1]

I'm always on the lookout for roofing stuff. Just recently bought some HO and N Scale roof shingles in various colors at a small local train show and also I even used sandpaper as a roof on a scratchbuilt shed/barn and it didn't look too bad! I'll have to get some of that silk span. Does it come in different thickness and does it need to be spray painted or can you just brush paint on it?

[ginzokid]

I don't know about different thickness of the silk span, but I just brush painted it. For N scale, 400 or 60 grit sandpaper can represent built-up roofing on the flat. You can paint it too. B-)

[barrysfp45]

If you use this paper with airplane dope it will adhere and also tighten the surface, and no it is a single thickness, can be brushed or sprayed with what ever paint you want to use. ]:)

[dl85vette]

I never liked ballasting around the moving parts of the turnouts, so I tried something new, similar to an idea I once read. Someone (in magazine?) suggested using textured spray paint and paint the area under the turnout's footprint. I went a step better. Instead of painting, I hauled out my (carpenters) glue and coated the cork roadbed where the turnout would sit. I used a piece of scrap cork to scrape the excess leaving a uniform thin layer. Then I used a spoon and sprinkled a good layer of ballast over the glue. Using a small piece of flat hardwood I used my weight and pressed the wood on the ballast for 10-20 seconds. Let the ballast sit for an hour and then come back and brush the excess off. I then brushed the surface with my finger working any loose ballast free and ensuring there isn't any bumps. Turnout is now ready to be laid. I can go back and ballast the safe areas of the turnout but don't care if I don't do the moving parts area.... Especially when I have around 10 or so turnouts in my indust park. -- Edited by dl85vette at 03/07/2010 5:30 PM PST I'm just very careful around the points and throw bar areas. I make sure the ballast is below the tops of the ties and the points move freely before I apply the glue. I also center the points and pin them in place so they don't accidentally get glued to the outside rails. Another trick is to apply a little oil with a microbrush to the point and main rails. The glue will not stick to them and they are easily cleaned. B-) -- Edited by ginzokid at 03/09/2010 3:47 AM PST