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Practicing Scenery

As a new comer to "really serious" attempts at scenery I am rather timid about committing untried techniques to my "big" layout. I am considering building a kind of very small dummy platform, or a diorama, to practice things on BEFORE I try it on my main layout. This got me to wondering, and I thought it might make a good topic, how do you folks out there try new techniques and materials? Do you do mock ups, or do you just "throw caution to the wind" and put it right on your "pride and joy" platform? Inquiring rookie minds need to know! Marc
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Practicing Scenery

I don't have an accent. Vinny is packing though. Someone needs to complete his thoughts and spell check just to give him time to reflect if he is really finished with the posting before hitting the "post" button. Leave Natasha alone!!! Here I come to save the day!!! Try to do that with the proper yodel..... Duddley
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Practicing Scenery

Here's a question for all of you. I'm am basically a cheapskate. I bought one tunnel portal for my new RR. In the end I will need at least eight. They are expensive. I bought a bottle of WS latex rubber to paint over this tunnel portal to make a pattern for me to make copies by pouring lightweight hydrocal into this mold. Do you think I should use something like cheese cloth in between layers of the latex rubber to strengthen it? Have any of you ever done this and what were the results? Satisfied with the mold? How long did the mold last? That rubber stinks by the way. Pete the Experimenter
Message 17 of 143
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Practicing Scenery

Pete, I found that after about three or four coats of the rubber I had to put a layer of ordinary medical gauze before the last coat to stiffen it up a bit. I have found that when I use the WS latex it requires a minimum of at least six coats. I then made a box fence to go around my new mold and lay the mold face down with a release agent on it and then poured a light coat of hydrocal over it.This will give you a backing stiffener for your rubber mold, I did this only because the mold will flex sometimes when pouring or moving to early. When I'm ready to pour another mold I set it into the stiffener mold and away I go. After it sets then I remove the rubber mold from the stiffener mold and peel the rubber mold from the item I want. This may be a little extra work but I have had a few failures with out the (backer) stiffener mold. Years back we could buy liquid rubber for molding and if you applied four coats it was flexible and ridgid enough to work with and didn't require any gauze or cheesecloth.The old style liquid latex was somewhat as stiff as the black WS Rock moulds, I wish I could get some of that today. I have a bottle of WS latex rubber in my hand now and it seems as though you have to put many coats and the gauze on as each coat seems to thin, that's my feeling anyway. I have a couple of molds made this way and have probably made about thirty items from each mold. "Care" in taking your item out of the mold is the key word. Jack
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Practicing Scenery

Great idea for the backer mold. Never though of that Jack, but I definitely will do it. I used to set flexible molds in sand for support. I like your method much better. Was the fence wood or styrene or doesn't it matter? Now what do you use for a release agent? I have used baby powder and Pam. Not too happy with either as the clean up of the casting is sometimes a problem. I have 4 coats plus one gauze coat so far. Why does it smell so bad? Pete
Message 19 of 143
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Practicing Scenery

Pete, The fence is just scraps as once the backer is finished it is not needed anymore. It can stay if its solid or chipped off. The only release agent I use is to release the rubber mold from the backer. I just use of bit of the wifes spray Pam or what ever brands around. (Cod oil might be a bit heavy here) You could just use your lovely wifes bath powder or baby powder. If you make a mold with no gauze or stiffener you should use powder on the outside of your mold as when you roll it off your piece it has a tendency to stick to itself. The actual mold does not require release agent as it will still be flexible enough to gently peel off your casting even with a light gauze stiffiner inside it. Latex rubber is a combination of natural latex, water and 100% ammonia. Thats why it smells strong. Beware that Ammonia used in a closed room can cause eye problems. ALWAYS use in a WELL VENTILATED area and then move to a warm location to cure. I used to use damp sand to set molds in but found for containers and roadrailers, portals, brick walls,that I couldn't get them to stay flat and straight. If you were duplicating such things as old tire piles, tree stumps,tie stacks,loads for gondolas etc or vertical objects that didn't need to be straight or small figurines then I will still use damp sand generaly in a old cake pan or pot, something that is deep enough and I can get my size 12 mitts into to work. I just went to the local craft store(Micheals here in Ottawa) and picked up a different type of latex. It is a lot heavier than WS. It's made in the states in CA so will try it on a couple of pieces and let you know how it goes. Jack Post: 47 (A beginner) -:)
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Practicing Scenery

Mr. Breeze Not to fear for I believe (and hope) that all the tender feelings were left in group 1 and did not come over from the "dark side". Besides we have the "force" with us. Lou somewhere between the past and the future.
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Practicing Scenery

Lou, OH, I didn't fear for this group. I don't think we have "that" mentality here. I thought it was a perfectly legitimate question. I think AK may have been aggravated because the "poster" obviously didn't read the old posts where Dave explained, and even asked for opinions. I'm ready to let this topic go, mice-elf! Mr. B
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Practicing Scenery

Jack, We don't have a Michaels or anything else here. Crafts Canada closed two years ago and the one craft store only stocks tole and ceramics. Let me know how that new stuff goes and maybe you can send me some. Some day I'll move back to civilization. Meanwhile, it's mail-order for me for just about everything. Pete
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Practicing Scenery

it's mail-order for me for just about everything Except screech and cod lips, THOSE you got, right Pete? Mr. B
Message 24 of 143
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Practicing Scenery

I was just looking at the photo albums. I noticed little holes in some of the plaster cloth. I have the same problem. I was just going to make a thin "slurry" of plaster and go over it again. Then I read about "hydrocal" and another product called "sculpt-a-mold" (I think). What are these materials? What are their specific applications? What's the "best" solution for my little holes? Marc
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Practicing Scenery

crazyd37
Enthusiast
Jack, Is what you are saying in #18, that you are basically making a mold within a mold? Or outside of the mold? I bought some stuff to try to make a mold for something and it seems too flimsy. Dot
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Practicing Scenery

Marc, When you put the plaster cloth in place, you are supposed to use your fingers and smooth the wet plaster into the holes to create a solid surface. Your questions can be answered best by reading the WS scenery manual that I'm sure you have. It will explain the products and their use rather than my rewriting the book here. Pete
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Practicing Scenery

Dot, After I make my rubber mold in many layers and include gauze or cheesecloth for a slight stiffener and let it cure for a few days. I leave the article I want to cast in the rubber mold. After the mold has set I use a light coat of spray Pam or a dusting of baby powder on the outside of the mold to stop it from sticking to itself and then lay my mold face down and pour over top of it a plaster of paris/scuplta mold (your choice) in a small box form. After this sets you remove your rubber mold and item from the plaster cast,remove the item from the rubber and away you go. When making your rubber mold try to get it as smooth as you can on the outside to help in removing from your stiffener/backing. To many rough spots on the outside of your rubber mold will bind on the plaster stiffener when removing from the stiffener. Hope I haven't confused you. Jack 48
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Practicing Scenery

crazyd37
Enthusiast
Jack, No you didn't confuse me and THANK YOU for the information! It will be extremely useful. Now I wish I didn't have to get back to work as I want to try it out! Maybe tonight. Thanks again, Dot
Message 29 of 143
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Practicing Scenery

I'm still building up layers on mine Jack. How thick do you make the backing mold over the latex form? 1/4" or more? Trying to figure out how deep to make the box fence. Pete
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