Buyer or Builder?

[ginzokid]

The future of model railroading seems to be going the easy and fast way as with everything else these days. There is an infusion of pre-built structures by Walthers and others. Also Intermountain and Model Die Casting used to put out wonderful car kits, but have now switched to ready-to run. We all enjoy the Micro-Trains cars and other RTR, but I for one miss the fun of building a kit car. Which brings me to the subject. Are you a Builder of kits, structure or car, or do you prefer to buy the ready made and RTR? In other words, are there any craftsmen out there like me or are you in a hurry to see the finished product and layout? Are you afraid to build a kit? Why? Tell us why you do what you do, buy or build or both. Pete

[untabubba]

Pete, I like to build kits. I was a AVID model builder as a youth. 1/24 scale cars, mostly AMT, and AIRFIX airplanes, mostly WWI and WWII. I think they were 1/87 or 1/72? I got pretty good with a spray can and my camouflage jobs (on the PLANES!) were real good. I used to win model contests at the LHS. I had many planes hanging, by very thin, clear fishing line, from my bedroom ceiling, in "dive-bomb" type poses. I have several structures that I have put together. I also have purchased some "prefabs" too. It just kind of accelerates the development of the community if you can "plop" a few houses down, wire up the grain of wheat bulb and "light'em up"! Actually, even the prefabs get "the treatment". I weather them a little, I try to paint the insides black IF I can get a brush it there. It's MOST unrealistic when the whole building GLOWS!! All-in-all I guess I have about a 60/40 mix (60% kits)at present and I have about five kits waiting to be put together. I've never even SEEN a kit of N scale rolling stock.....course I've never "shopped" them either! I guess I'd have to say I prefer RTR rolling stock, since I've NEVER been "motivated" to seek a kit. Buildings are another matter. I WAY prefer to build, it's just the time...finding the TIME! Marc

[janesew]

Time and patience. I have my collection of Micro-trains cars and most of my locos are RTR in Southern Ontario transition era colours. However, most of the layout is built from kits and scratch. It is still early in the process and it's the first layout. As the "broad strokes" get done I'm looking forward to a fun time over the many years detailing the individual scenes and getting around to building the contents of the mountain of kit boxes stored under the layout! I know I'm going to enjoy tackling the four Dimi trains MOW cars - my first rolling stock from a kit. One of the first questions non-train people ask when they see my layout is, "Did you buy those buildings and cars like that or did you have to make them." There is a lot of pride in saying that you spent the time to build and paint something. Train people are already familiar with all the products so they can see the effort you put into the layout. Some of the guys at the LHS have been paid to build layouts for wealthy people. I guess there is a different kind of pride that comes from showing off what your money can buy compared to what your talent and learned skills have created. But the bottom line is: Are you enjoying yourself? Fred the builder - Can I do it? Yes I can! (another obscure TV reference)

[spottzz]

You want a car kit that is a challenge? Proto makes HO kits that are REAL. Not just a roof walk, a brake wheel and some chassi struts. Lots of parts and they look GREAT when finished. Very difficult for the old guy with big hands and failing eyesight. I build buildings and rolling stock and also buy RTR. Bill in Phoenix

[70novahound]

Marc, Roundhouse makes rolling stock kits, and they make RTR. CJ

[70novahound]

OH, I build my own kits, I don't even consider already built! I guess I have more than I thought done on the layout, I have been building my kits! CJ

[nascarpetlover]

Most of my buildings are from kits (about 80%). The remaining are prebuilt items acquired with auctions or only way I could find the item. All of these will be altered or used for kitbashing projects to suit my needs. Like most of us it is just a matter of finding the time that is needed to build them. Lou PS And yes I am enjoying myself very much. It is suprising how much more relaxed I feel during and working on my layout. Beats the hell out of Meds.

[crazyd37]

Hello All, When I first started in N Scale, I bought 2 pre-built structures. Then I saw all that was offered in kits from just about every maker and I must say, they are much more fun to make for our layout. My first thought was how intimidating, then, like a good book, I couldn't get enough! Best of all, you can change things to make them look just the way you want. My very first kit was a Victorian Mansion and it had soooo many pieces, I almost didn't build it. Once I got it started I couldn't stop. The only thing I didn't do on that one was change the colors which I wish I had now. Having grown up with 2 younger brothers, I guess my childhood "fixing" up of their unfinished or botched up models was a good help here! Weathering has become an art. So many ways to do this step, but probably the most realistic thing to finish up with. I have tried chalks, diluted paints and want to learn to do it with an airbrush. I am almost finished with a house and may try airbrush weathering on that. My question is what should I do with the windows? I am reluctant to spray anything and wonder if masking those small areas can be done and if anyone has any tips on how to mask small items. Thanks, DZ in NJ

[ginzokid]

Dot, Do you light your buildings? If so, do you put light blocks inside so you can not see through the building? Have you tried adding curtains on some or all of the windows made of colored paper or just painting curtains on the back of the glass? If there is no detailed interior and you want to spray weathering on the building is doesn't matter much if some spray gets on the glass. It fogs them up in a weathered old building. You can even board up some windows for an older look. If you really want clear glass, I suggest you do your weathering before you install the glass if at all possible. I usually weather my pieces before I assemble the kit. My final weathering is done with dry brushing and dullcote. I spray from the top and let the mist fall down on to the building trying not to hit the windows directly. For masking small areas you can try Micro Mask. It is a liquid that forms a film when dry. You paint and then peal the masking off. You can get sloppy when applying the mask and trim it to the exact area with a #11 blade once dry. This stuff is used a lot by airplane builders for the fine lines on canopies and camouflage. Hope this all helps. Pete

[crazyd37]

Pete, I have only lit one of the buildings so far. (will add light on more once they are installed) I used light blocks in a couple. Some of my newer buildings have curtains, I like the realism. Wish I had thought of that sooner. I did try paint on a larger church window. It sort of looks like stained glass. (I used several colors) A feable first attempt, but it is so small, who would look so close?! I should try to weather when before I assemble the kit. It would make some things easier. Thanks for the Micro Mask tip. Ed used that once when he did a loco. I never even thought of it. Live and learn. That's what I like about this group. DZ

[ginzokid]

Dot, I don't know if you can find any of these, but Builders in Scale used to make "Lace Curtains". I have some and just checked Walthers. They are sold out. You might get lucky and find them at your LHS or on eBay. Part number is 169-253. For the "stained glass" in my church I have used color slide frames without the paper frame of course. The pictures were of multi-colored flowers. You might try that next time. Or just film negatives. As long as the colors are bright and multiple. One more weathering step. I don't know if you have discovered this, but once you have sealed the weathering with dullcote, try spraying it with a mist of one tablespoon of India ink mixed in 10 ounces of rubbing alcohol. Let this settle into the "crooks and nannies" as a shadowed area. The end result will also "craze" and "frost" the dullcote to give the building a really dusty look. Have fun. Pete

[crazyd37]

Pete, Had to get back to work before, film negatives, WOW. I never would have thought of that! Thanks. Now to find some with all this digital stuff these days! Time to look in the junk drawers. I also like the india ink shadowing. I did a "seedy" building that I plan on putting in the "lower district" and it took a lot of work and this would have saved me a lot of time. This will surely work on the rest of that area! Thanks, DZ

[ginzokid]

Dot, None of what I have told you is of my own invention. I just have a 50+ year experiment going on here and I pick up a few things as I go along. Look into Dave Frary's book "Realistic Model R Scenery" or some such thing. Don't have it anymore, sent it to Ernie, but it is a great book. The alcohol over dullcote idea came from John Allen, The Wizard of Monterey and a way ahead of his time model railroader. George Sellios of Fine Scale Miniatures and the famous Franklin & South Manchester RR is another one who believes that most RR structures should look like they came from the 30s and are run down. He also uses the alcohol washes. If you don't like the idea of alcohol, flamable, you can substitute with a very diluted wash of your favorite "dirty" color acrylic water based paint. Sometimes I just use the dirty brush cleaner bottle stuff as my wash. Just remember, a solvent based paint or wash will dissolve everything underneath it. Use the solvent based stuff first and then use the alcohol or acrylic washes over them. Hope this helps. Pete

[beastranger]

E-bay seller cgfil (I think) has stained glass windows printed on clear plastic. He's the one who sells blue and silver corrugated siding (great stuff) and EOT lighting kits. He usualy has something on almost every page. Doug

[untabubba]

Dot and Pete, Light blocks?? What are you folks using as "light blocks"? I've been applying flat black paint on the inside of the roofs and walls...sometimes several layers. Is there a faster, easier, simpler or "cleaner" way? Marc