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Traub 18KW Orange Blossom ring question

Ok, I have a beautiful art deco Orange Blossom ring by Traub in Detroit.  I found it dated around 1920..but I can't find the exact ring.  I am hoping there is someone here that would know for sure.  I love the history!  Anyway, this one I have seen the pattern, but not one with the 5 stones.  And I'm not sure if they are diamond or what since Traub made a lot of wedding bands and engagement rings...  It is marked 18KW with the Traub hallmark and Orange Blossom stamped inside.  It is missing 3 of te 5 stones, but it is beautiful.  Any more info would be great!  Thanks so much!

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Traub 18KW Orange Blossom ring question

White Gold was invented in 19th centruy. In America, Bliss Brothers started promotion of White Gold at late Edwardian era(1900-1910). White Gold was very hard to work with and  required many times of annealing in fabrication process.  However,  18 Karat gold, meaning; %75 gold and %25 alloy, was easier to work with than 14 Karat(%58.3 gold and %41.7 alloy). 

The main challenge was to keep the color white(steel color/Platinum color) after many months of usage because gold is yellow in nature.  Today, we typically use Copper, Iron, Nickel, Tin and Aluminum as alloys in jewelry and at the end of the process almost all White Gold production gets Rhodium plated. But the challenge of Art Deco jewelers was to produce a product which doesn't need plating. Plating was considered faking the look. So, the alloy was the best kept secret of designers. 

Today, one could X-Ray the metal and find out the exact alloy material in Art Deco jewelry. 

Your 'Orange Blossom' band is missing some diamonds. Those should be replaced by Single Cut diamonds for correct restoration. Do not ever hard polish the band. More in-depth details, higher the value.  

 

Cute band,

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Traub 18KW Orange Blossom ring question

Are you sure you're not confusing Bliss Brothers with Belais Brothers?  It is my understanding that Belais is considered to one of the first American jewelers to use white gold, having a patent applied for in 1918 and approved in 1920.

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Traub 18KW Orange Blossom ring question

That's what a read somewhere, long time ago. I might be wrong. Here is their original add. Bliss_1.jpg

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