Coach Cartouche Authentication Please
I have a vintage Coach bag that is under scrutiny by a prospective buyer. It is set up for authentication upon purchase. Can anyone tell me if this is authentic? And what are the concerns? Thank you in advance.
19 comments
mccon49
·6 months agoThis is authentic! I have collected vintage Coach for the last 30 years. I just have to say it’s authentic!!! Beautiful as well!
salvatore2019
·6 months agoI am a collector of over 150 vintage bags and I can tell you unequivocally that this is REAL!! It has the cartouche and all things necessary to be real. Anyone that advises this is fake DOES NOT KNOW what they are talking about.
allthetreasure
·6 months agoI am honestly shocked that someone is claiming a fake bag from the early 70s exists AND is sooooo close to what they consider real. Honestly people who try to police the older cartouche and metal tag days are nutso. Coach was a small NUC company with true artisans not a factory keeping everything “up to code” until the mid 80s…. That’s why the early bags are so special.
I love the variations in hardware, leathers, and even sizing that comes with these older bags because they are truly each “one of a kind”
I'm sorry that some “experts” are determined to say FAKE when there is so much info out there that will prove one major fact - These bags were not mass produced in the 70s… I’m sure at the time cost was a big part of their hardware purchases and hence the variety of different hardware. Anywho this bag is real IMO for whatever that’s worth in an eBay forum lol. Have a great evening!
albertabrightalberta
·6 months agoFor those who doubt, here's another comp showing the buckle of the fake in question as compared to a genuine Coach bag with a solid brass buckle.
Note that the genuine buckle is still gold solid brass (since plating wouldn't be on solid brass and therefore wouldn't wear off) and the font is different and thickness of the buckle is more substantial.
pinkpups1
·6 months agoYou didn't know that brass can come in various alloy blends? Irony brass can have a silver-tone. And Coach sourced hardware from various suppliers back in that time period, so sometimes the hardware can be different on bags of the same style.
starlite23355
·6 months agoThis comparison is based on your misunderstanding of early Coach hardware.
The Crescent was produced from 1972 through 1984, and the example in question has a cartouche stamp, placing it specifically around 1973–1974. During this period Coach used multiple hardware manufacturers, and the buckles vary in alloy tone, thickness, and font stamping. There is no single “correct” buckle style for these bags, especially during the precreed era.
The lighter tone you’re pointing to does not indicate plating. Early Coach buckles were solid brass, but brass alloys vary significantly depending on copper/zinc ratios and finishing processes. Some read as deep gold, others as pale brass—especially after 50 years of oxidation, wear, cleaning, or lacquer exposure. That variation is completely normal for early Coach pieces.
Using one buckle as a universal comparison standard for a bag produced for 12 years is simply inaccurate for this era and silly imo.
More importantly, hardware alone is never used to determine authenticity. The cartouche stamp, construction, stitch work, leather type, proportions, and pattern details all align with an authentic early precreed Crescent.
For context, again, I own 19 Crescent bags from pre to full creed, and the buckles vary across them in tone, weight, even buckle post (pre creed is smaller/thinner) and stamp characteristics depending on the hardware supplier used at the time.
There is nothing about this bag that indicates it is fake. Nothing. The bag IS authentic.
touchofklass27
·6 months agoThis bag is 100% real. Coach sourced hardware from many different manufacturers. Some of the brass has more alloy in it than others. Whoever is saying this bag is fake they are wrong. The cartouche is worn but still real and the correct cartouche for the time period.
sandimas
·6 months agoSorry [Edited by Moderator] not mistaken. We just know more about this era and styles of bags.
tobaccocardyahoo
·6 months agoThis bag has defects, scratches and the like, which are not identified, in words, on the listing.
Authentic or not, this is likely to delay authentication.
flowerpower510
OP6 months agoThis bag is very old, not surprising that there are small issues, but none that I can see as an issue. Thank you.
pinkpups1
·6 months agoRest easy, its authentic. I lurk, and don't comment often, but this one deserves my rare comment.
flowerpower510
OP6 months agoEven the vintage coach group on FB claims it is authentic. Thank you for your input!
sandimas
·6 months agoYou are very welcome. Some real experts who know that bag, its era and its intricacies have helped with this authentication, so rest easy
albertabrightalberta
·6 months ago@flowerpower510
I know you usually come here to verify your bags and when I saw this listing, that was the reason I sent you a message. I know that I'd hope someone would do that for me if I erred.
Someone who was interested in that bag posted an authentication request on "authenticate this Coach" on the purse forum (another site).
Because the potential buyer had seen errors in the "authenticity guaranteed" program, they didn't feel comfortable in trusting them to accurately judge what they thought could be a close fake.
None of the "issues" in and of themselves would prove your bag fake but the combination of all the issues have raised the strong opinion that the bag is fake.
I totally understand how this bag would have fooled you. Without an extensive knowledge and vast library of comps, that would be an understandable error.
I shall add comparison photos below.
Issues:
The combination of all the anomalies on your bag vs. known authentic versions of the same bag would indicate that your bag wasn't made by Coach.
starlite23355
·6 months agoThis bag is absolutely authentic. I own 19 Crescent bags, ranging from the early metal tag versions (1972) to cartouche, pre-registration, and full registration examples. The style debuted in 1972 and was produced through 1984, and over that time there were several small iteration changes.
The comparison photos being used actually support this as an authentic Cartouche version (made 1973/74). The cartouche stamp is slightly worn; however, it is still accurate for the period.
Coach sourced hardware from multiple manufacturers during this era—most commonly Wilcox, Crittenden, and North & Judd. The solid brass–imprinted buckles, however, were made by a different manufacturer and often have a slightly different alloy. Some buckles from this period are also stamped “Made in England,” and those alloys vary as well.
no question that this bag is 100% real and made by coach.
flowerpower510
OP6 months agoThank you, that is a wealth of knowledge. I plan on keeping the listing active & when it sells, I will let eBay tell me if there is a problem.
sandimas
·6 months agoAuthentic pre-creed Crescent bag. Another popular FORUM says its f a k e, I disagree for many reasons. I say it is authentic.
flowerpower510
OP6 months agoThat's what I thought, it is authentic or I would never have listed it. I saw those posts on another site & disagree as well. Wondering why another country (China famous for knock offs) would even bother to duplicate something this vintage & old? When this was made, I don't think we had the problem of knock offs in the 60 & 70s. Maybe I'm wrong, but never encountered anything knock off back in the day, 50 years ago. Will wait to see what others post. Thank you again!
albertabrightalberta
·6 months agoHe's mistaken again.