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rayann67 · ‎11-10-2023

I picked up this brooch a couple of days ago and am stumped on the metal. The gemstone tests as a Diamond (just under .5 carat) so I figured it was set in gold. I can't tell what the marks show and the metal is solid not plated. Tested with 18k, 22k, and Platinum acids. None of the acids dissolved the rub mark. Can anyone read the mark or recognize it? Art Deco? The clasp is different. Help!?

christinesclassicjewelry · ‎11-10-2023

If the platinum acid doesn't dissolve the mark, I would venture a guess that it is platinum. Especially with an almost half carat diamond in it. As far as age, I would estimate late Victorian but it could be Art Deco period too. I'm only guessing that based on the style. The clasp looks hand made. I can't read the marks at all with that pic, sorry. If you have a magnifying glass or a loupe you may be able to focus the camera through either of those to get a more detailed pic on the mark. It is absolutely lovely!

idealgems1 · ‎11-13-2023

Some jewelers' tests for platinum are, first, is it really heavy? Platinum has a very high specific gravity and is heavier than solid gold.

Another test is to rub a file on an inconspicuous spot. Platinum will grab the file like a soft wax, whereas gold will allow you to slide it along easier.

Another test is to see how well it polishes. Try to buff a scuffed area on the side of the brooch. Gold will polish up easily, while platinum will take forever to make the scratches go away.

Finally, you can carefully and lightly hit it with a torch until it is beginning to glow. Gold will darken where you have torched it and need to polished, whereas platinum will revert to its original color with no visible effects of the torch.

Of course, one can't tell by looking at a photo...but the surface of your brooch looks more like platinum to me. Platinum has a softer overall look than white gold. Also, the surface scuffs up easily, so it is often hand engraved; which you piece appears to be too.

Looks to me like a great find!

rayann67 · ‎11-14-2023

Thank You both for your comments. I might try taking to a jeweler. Most of our locals aren't helpful even if I offer to pay them. It does feel heavier than it looks. The mark is kind of worn looking, but I thought I could see a P in the second mark. I appreciate the detailed how to's on additional testing but acids and a magnet are my limits. I'll try to update soon on what a jeweler says. Thanks again!

dream*peddler · ‎11-14-2023

Yes, keep us posted, rayann. I've been puzzling over this since you posted it. Keep in mind that a lot of the counter help in jewelry stores are there just to show items and don't know much more than you do. Hopefully, you can find a jewelry store that employs a gemologist who will take a look at that pretty brooch for you.

I'm not a hoarder! There's a price tag on everything!

idealgems1 · ‎11-15-2023

The other thing is that your brooch appears to be entirely hand made. The manufacturing jeweler would have cut the blank from sheet, then curved it slightly in a die. The scrolls would have been curled up by hand from flat stock, then soldered on. You may be able to see undercut lines on the solder between the scrolls and the base because solder polishes away faster than the sheet and stock. You may even be able to see saw marks in the cut-out openings and some wrinkles where the scrolls have been worked. Then everything was hand engraved. Really, really nice!

rayann67 · ‎11-16-2023

Okay, well, locals as helpful as ever. Two different jewelers would only say it does appear to be Platinum. Once they know I am not buying they have no interest in why I'm there. Oh well, THANK YOU ALL for your input.