Problems with all of harleys twin cam engines?

[djs_dog]

I just received the January issue of American iron magazine. Techline section written by Donny Peterson of Heavy Duty cycle states that he is finding problems with all twin cams engines. Problems that were thought to be only on early 99 and 2000 models. Quote:"We are finding damaged Ina inner cam bearings, worn timing chain adjusters, and cam lobe damage on ALL year twin cams" Huh?!?...AIN"T THIS FREAKIN GREAT!....I guess the more things change the more they stay the same with Harley Davidson. Buy a new bike and still have to dump money into it to keep it running. This SUCKS!...I'll be curious to see how harley responds to this.

[gearhead_to_the_max]

trident_t150- If you've still got any parts on your bike that say Lucas on them, you don't have much room to go casting aspersions. LOL

[blackbikecats]

YEAH...THE CAMS/CHAINS/ADJUSTERS NEED TO BE LOOKED AT. I CALLED H-D AS TO WHEN? 30K-100K...NO HELP THERE.
MY {STOCK MOTOR}'99 FLHRCI WENT TO 67K AND GOT A "SUPER KIT" {CAM PLATE/CAMS/OIL PUMP ECT...IT WAS NEEDED SOONER}. THE ADJUSTER "SHOES" WERE BROKEN/GONE, BEARINGS WERE OK. {H-D HAD MENTIONED A $$$REMANUFACTURED MOTOR $$$}
MY DYNA WILL BE CHECKED @ 30K. HOPEFULLY THE SHOES WILL ONLY BE WORN. THE RUB IS, ONCE ITS APART YOU MAY AS WELL CHANGE THE PARTS, EVEN IF THEY ARE IN SPEC.
THE MAINTENANCE ISSUE HERE IS NOT MENTIONED IN THE OWNERS/SHOP MANUALS AS MILEAGE, ONLY AS WORN PARTS. YOU KNOW..."GUESS THE NUMBER IN MY HEAD" AS TO WHEN TO DO IT. I SUPPOSE MOST BIKES WON'T GET THAT MANY MILES. IT SHOULD BE LISTED @ THE 30K $ERVICE.
OVERALL,I'M PLEASED WITH THE TC. I'M NOT HAPPY WITH THE...GOTCHA.
TAKE CARE

[djs_dog]

Blackbikecats, what kind of riding do you do? Highway running most of the time? Are you a city dweller?. Miles don't always tell the story. I guess I'll have to dig deeper for info as I save my money to switch over to a gear driven cam system. This seems to be the only solution to fix what right now seems to be the only weak spot in a relatively strong engine design....A combination Andrews cams with the SS gearsystem is what I'm checking out...It's expensive but a lot cheaper than replacing an engine. The biggest controversy seems to be as how contaminated the engine becomes when the chain system fails. Peterson claims that small miniscule pieces of metal could work their way through to the crank.

[djs_dog]

Oh yeah before I forget. Blackbikecats, WHY ARE YOU SCREAMING AT US! Lighten up on the cap locks there guy. It makes it hard to read your post.

[hoppy47m]

I'm here in Northern Arizona where we get 4 seasons. Summer time temps can reach the 100 degree mark, with fall settling in about 80 degrees, right now the morning temp is 20-30 degrees with it warming up around noon time to in the 50's or 60's. I can ride from here in the morning when it's 30 out and in 40 miles the temp has changed to 60.....how can I deal with the oil thing with this much of a drastic change in temps.....is there a happy medium?......hope I made sense.....lol..

[trident_t150]

Hoppy, you are a perfect candidate for the 20/50 oil. Very few of us live someplace where a straight 50 or 60 weight could be used year around. That stuff doesn't even pour at freezing temps.

[thejunkman3]

I live in Texas North Central. Temps here are not too extreme. Hot in the summer cold in the winter buit cold only last a few days at a time. My friend put 60 weight in this sumer as his shop buddy said to do. It got cold the other day and he thunk his battery bad. Not so the oil would not let the motor spin over fast enough. It was in the 30s. So I am not sure where to run 60 weight year round. Man it freezes her in the AM and we ride in shirts in the PM. well until dark thirty.

[hoppy47m]

Thanks Trident, that's what I'm running now, just needed a second opinion is all.....

[blackbikecats]

Sorry 'bout the YELLING, I'm deaf...
As to my riding, I cover the "back roads" in Socal with as little freeway/traffic as possible.
The "super kit" installation in my TC has 1300 miles on it. So far there is at least as much cam chain noise with something new, intermittent valve clatter while riding...Back to the dealer for a re-evaluation. {Will likely wind up at a speed shop for a set of upgraded lifters/pushrods}
Take care...

[djs_dog]

Blackbikecats, thanks for information. Keep us updated on the results or diagnose of the clatter. Have you considered the gear driven cam set up? I've been checking cost of this set up and found all components to be some where around $700.00 to $800.00. That's for parts only and no labor. This would cure all your ills. At least the problems associated with the chain drive system. Damage may already be done to your engine by not finding the worn out shoes,chain and cams earlier.....What does the "super kit" that the dealer installed consist of?

[blackbikecats]

The "super kit" is basically the right side of the motor, from the push rods down. Included is the oil pump, cam plate assembly with cams, lifters, gaskets ect. Push rods are not included. Under $1000 installed, if you pay for it.
H-D pulls the rockers to remove the push rods. You could cut them out and use adjustables. However, on my sportster I did find a rocker arm bolt backed out 1/4" {?}...so there is merit for the extra work/expense of doing it from the top.
With my cam chain noises I've decided to change the oil/filter and RIDE the damn thing! That {and a new set of ear plugs} will work until after the new year.
The stock set of cams should last another 40k miles before inspection/replacement is due. {110k miles for the bike} It has good power and is reliable to the point of being boring. The gear drive is more than I care to spend.
"Torque cones" were installed. They add to the package, keeping turbulence away from the exhaust port.
Take care

[skullyzkuztomz534louis]

Try adjusting clutch starting at the clutch hub. Then adjust cable. So many people just assume adjusting cluch at the cable is all you need to do. When infact when clutches wear out adjustment is needed at the clutch hub..

Turn clutch hub scew in till you feel it stop then 1/4 turn out or a little more. Lock jam nut...

Than at the clutch handle there should be 1/8 inch play between cable and housing.

Most important use Harley oil specific to "PRIMARY" .. 

GOOD LUCK

Skully....

If these procedures have been done , possible "shifter paw" adjustment will be needed. see owner manuel

[skullyzkuztomz534louis]

Thank you,

Here in Hawaii I run 60wt oil in both my 103 ci Street Glides. It seem  to quiet the valve train and start up noise by 90%. Finally someone who gets it.  

I have this argument every day... I own a shop in Hawaii "very hot" and my competitor's think Im nuts 20/50 they say. that includes the Dealer.. Yeh what ever... I think the who ever made the chart with the different temps and oil vescosity was also dead on...

The fix

An up graded oil pump , oil plateand lifters ..That why the screaming oil pump was produced. The noise is enough to just irritate you but does not cause immediate damage to you motor..Its an up grade get it!@#$@#$ Lmao

Skully

[garthane]

Check your basic clutch adjustment at the derby cover first. That's where wear shows up. Once that's right, re-adjust your lever to 1/8" free play and see if that helps. :-{)}