03-28-2015 04:03 PM
So this bracelet is stumping me. Tee construction feels right for art deco era, the metal is a potmetal type, has a faint silver plating, possibly rhodium, and theres lots of tiny rose cut marcasites. The clasp is foldover type, so not much help there.
Whats throwing me is the condition. All the marcasites are there (they do not appear to be prong set, but with marcasites this small Im not surprised), and they really sparkle. Other than a tiny bit of pitting to the metal on the back, the condition is really, really good. As if it was never worn, or even moved lol.
What do y'all think?
Ill put the other pics in post #2. Thanks!
03-28-2015 04:04 PM
THe lines on the back are slightly softer than those on the front, which is something Ive seen in early 20th century base metal pieces, but not sure about late 20th century?
03-28-2015 04:12 PM
03-28-2015 04:20 PM
03-28-2015 05:18 PM
Bead setting is a way to set stones without prongs or glue. It is an art. Here is what it looks like
This shows how it is done in two different ways. I think I m seeing the first example.
Bead setting is a generic term for setting a stone directly into metal using gravers, also called burins, which are essentially tiny chisels. A hole is drilled directly into the metal surface, and then a ball burr is used to make a concave depression just the size of the stone. Some setters will set the stone into that concave depression, and some will use a hart burr to cut a bearing around the edge. Then the stone is inserted into that space, and the gravers or burins are used to lift and push a tiny bit of the metal into and over the edge of the stone. Then a beading tool, which is simply a steel shaft with a concave dimple cut into the tip, is pushed onto the bit of metal, rounding and smoothing it, pushing it firmly onto the stone, and creating a "bead". That is the essential method, but there are many types of setting that use the technique. When many stones are set in this fashion very closely together, about 1 millimeter apart,[1] covering a surface, that is called "pavé"—from the French for paved or cobblestoned. When a long line is engraved into the metal going up to each of the beads, that is "star set", because of the look. The other common usage is called "bead and bright", "grain setting" or "threading" in Europe, and other names at times. This is when, after the stone is set as described above, the background metal around the stone is cut away, usually in geometric shapes. In the end what is left is the stone with four beads in a lowered box shape with an edge around it. Often it is a row of stones, so it will be in a long shape with a raised edge and a row of stones and beads down the center. This type of setting is still used often, but it was very common in the early to middle 20th century.
This was a popularway of setting marcasites.
03-28-2015 05:39 PM
The beads in the bracelet are not bead set,they are "burr" set which is only half the bead set process.Whoever set the stones raised a burr and didn't finish the process with making the burrs into "balls" beads.
03-28-2015 08:31 PM
yes, I think there are little tabs of metal over the marcasites, about two per stone. I cant see too clearly as I cant find my loupe anywhere
03-29-2015 05:37 AM
Cleio, that is a very nice bracelet, is it signed W. Germany any where? And could it be ELOXAL by any chance ?
I know they made a lot of "will not tarnish" marcasite jewelry, co. was started in the 20's I believe? it would be light weight very shiny. Just a thought.
03-29-2015 06:02 AM - edited 03-29-2015 06:03 AM
Cleio, you might check out burr setting to see what you can find. From what I could find, burr setting has to do with the tools that are used to cut the setting for the stone to go into.
Bead setting is a generic term for setting a stone directly into metal using gravers, also called burins, which are essentially tiny chisels. A hole is drilled directly into the metal surface, and then a ball burr is used to make a concave depression just the size of the stone. Some setters will set the stone into that concave depression, and some will use a hart burr to cut a bearing around the edge.
Here is another great artical on stone setting. http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/settube
I have had marcasites that have had the stones set with 4 beads and 2 beads. But do the research and see what you think.
03-29-2015 07:17 AM
not signed anywhere unfortunately. I took a close look under the loupe and there are little tabs of metal opushed over two edges per stone. THey dont look polished into a bead shape tho, just flat tabs. I think I will refer to it as bead / burr set stones until I know more. Thanks all!
03-29-2015 08:04 AM
celio - eloxal originaly had paper tags and are very shiny and holds up very well over the time.. It also has normal metal finding . It is not popular in the us.