eBay

impalajohnny · ‎10-19-2011

Hate the discussion board format? Wish there was a place to have a running chat like in the old ebay chat rooms that they took away?

Here is the solution, one thread devoted to chatting about anything and everything about coins all in the same place.

Post whatever is on your mind. There is no official topic here. So let's get the chatting started.

beachgirlbaby01 · ‎02-23-2013

Good Morning Everyone,

Snipe?

And a Good Morning to you. you caught.

The more you explain it, the more I don't understand it.

b4wemet · ‎02-23-2013

Wow, I was way off on a snipe hunt. I better go get some Java...........

beachgirlbaby01 · ‎02-23-2013

Wow, I was way off on a snipe hunt. I better go get some Java...........

Only by 3. Sounds like you need it,

The more you explain it, the more I don't understand it.

beachgirlbaby01 · ‎02-23-2013

time to get ready for my day have a safe one.

The more you explain it, the more I don't understand it.

b4wemet · ‎02-23-2013

Yes thats the one and the other one i just mentioned, stamped inside M but it's San fransisco

Look at the bottom of the pedestal on the left side of Miss Liberty's foot ("left" as you see the coin; i.e. her right foot). There may be no letter, or a small D or S. The M on the other side appears on ALL standing Liberty quarters and is the designer's monogram.

ted_200 · ‎02-23-2013

Look at the bottom of the pedestal on the left side of Miss Liberty's foot ("left" as you see the coin; i.e. her right foot). There may be no letter, or a small D or S. The M on the other side appears on ALL standing Liberty quarters and is the designer's monogram.

for MacNeil.

The Floggings Will Continue Until Morale Improves.

indian_jeff · ‎02-23-2013

The M is for Hermon MacNeil, designer of the Standing Liberty Quarter. Charles Barber messed up the rendition of his design and MacNeil re-designed it in 1917, adding stars below the eagle and chainmail to Lady Liberty's outfit, covering up her breast and indicating that America was ready to go to war.

Contrary to the urban myth, there was no public "outcry" over the original bared breast.

It isn't a tough series to complete, just an expensive one. Aside from the 1916, a coin that will set one back at least $5000 for a passable example with a full date (in my experience), there are the 1921 and 1923-S, both of which will run two or three hundred dollars for even moderately nice examples.

Even if one decides to just complete the short set of recessed-date varieties from 1925-1930, a VG-F set, as your coin appears to be, it will run about $200 or more to do so, much of that going to the acquisition of the 1927-D and the 1927-S. The rest of the short set can be put together for prices relating to the melt value of silver plus a buck or two.

If one just wants a single example, the 1917 Variety 1 in AU58/AU58+ or MS63/MS63+ (both Full Head) can be spectacular coins for $200-400. They can be quite well struck, with either blast white luster (frosty or satiny) or with lovely golden toning. I'm particularly fond of a combination of blast white centers with golden peripheral toning. Similar examples of Variety 2 and Variety 2 Recessed Date will cost less, but won't have the Full Head and strong strikes of the 1917 Variety 1.

At every show I've been to, I've seen beautiful SLQ in high grades both raw and certified. If one wanted to immediately put together a complete set in PQ AU and up, it could be done with a phone call or two. All it takes is around $50,000, most of that going to the 1916 and 8/7 in AU. If one wanted to make it an FH set, think in terms of six figures.

If one wanted to put together a fully-struck collection...well...that would be impossible. If a coin has an FH designation, that doesn't mean that all of the rivets show. Dave Bowers polled several knowledgeable dealers and got a consensus that FS coins might not exist. That's one of the main reasons that the Mint was happy to drop the series before the statuatory 25 years.

indian_jeff · ‎02-23-2013

statutory not statuatory

"Even if one decides to just complete the short set of recessed-date varieties from 1925-1930, a VG-F set, as your coin appears to be, it will run about $200 or more to do so..." should read:

Even if one decides to just complete the short set of recessed-date varieties from 1925-1930, a VG-F set, as your coin appears to be, will run about $200 or more to do so

jody526 · ‎02-23-2013

http://www.usatoday.com/story/sports/nascar/2013/02/23/huge-car-crash-mars-nationwide-series-race-at...

"Aren't you suppossed to be out driving a truck or something jody?"

amrad78

jody526 · ‎02-23-2013

http://hosted.ap.org/dynamic/galleries/242.html?SITE=AP&SECTION=HOME&TEMPLATE=DEFAULT

"Aren't you suppossed to be out driving a truck or something jody?"

amrad78

beachgirlbaby01 · ‎02-23-2013

http://www.wftv.com/

The more you explain it, the more I don't understand it.

beachgirlbaby01 · ‎02-23-2013

Look at the bottom of the pedestal on the left side of Miss Liberty's foot ("left" as you see the coin; i.e. her right foot). There may be no letter, or a small D or S. The M on the other side appears on ALL standing Liberty quarters and is the designer's monogram.

B4 thanks Noticed it. I had never seen it before or payed attention but the description is what caught my eye.

The more you explain it, the more I don't understand it.

beachgirlbaby01 · ‎02-23-2013

for MacNeil.

Ted once again thanks.

The more you explain it, the more I don't understand it.

beachgirlbaby01 · ‎02-23-2013

The M is for Hermon MacNeil, designer of the Standing Liberty Quarter. Charles Barber messed up the rendition of his design and MacNeil re-designed it in 1917, adding stars below the eagle and chainmail to Lady Liberty's outfit, covering up her breast and indicating that America was ready to go to war.

Contrary to the urban myth, there was no public "outcry" over the original bared breast.

It isn't a tough series to complete, just an expensive one. Aside from the 1916, a coin that will set one back at least $5000 for a passable example with a full date (in my experience), there are the 1921 and 1923-S, both of which will run two or three hundred dollars for even moderately nice examples.

Even if one decides to just complete the short set of recessed-date varieties from 1925-1930, a VG-F set, as your coin appears to be, it will run about $200 or more to do so, much of that going to the acquisition of the 1927-D and the 1927-S. The rest of the short set can be put together for prices relating to the melt value of silver plus a buck or two.

If one just wants a single example, the 1917 Variety 1 in AU58/AU58+ or MS63/MS63+ (both Full Head) can be spectacular coins for $200-400. They can be quite well struck, with either blast white luster (frosty or satiny) or with lovely golden toning. I'm particularly fond of a combination of blast white centers with golden peripheral toning. Similar examples of Variety 2 and Variety 2 Recessed Date will cost less, but won't have the Full Head and strong strikes of the 1917 Variety 1.

At every show I've been to, I've seen beautiful SLQ in high grades both raw and certified. If one wanted to immediately put together a complete set in PQ AU and up, it could be done with a phone call or two. All it takes is around $50,000, most of that going to the 1916 and 8/7 in AU. If one wanted to make it an FH set, think in terms of six figures.

If one wanted to put together a fully-struck collection...well...that would be impossible. If a coin has an FH designation, that doesn't mean that all of the rivets show. Dave Bowers polled several knowledgeable dealers and got a consensus that FS coins might not exist. That's one of the main reasons that the Mint was happy to drop the series before the statuatory 25 years.